Many motorists, in order to improve the appearance of their car, tune their "Swallow" with LED lights. One of the tuning options is a running turn signal that draws the attention of other road users to itself. The article provides instructions for installing and configuring turn signals with running lights.
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Assembly instructions
LED lamps are semiconductor elements that glow under the influence of an electric current. The main element in them is silicon. Depending on which impurities are used, the color of the bulbs changes.
Photo gallery "Possible variants of dynamic direction indicators"
Tools and materials
To make a running turn signal with your own hands, you will need the following tools:
- soldering iron;
- side cutters or pliers;
- soldering iron and soldering material;
- tester.
From consumables you need to prepare fiberglass. It is needed for the manufacture of a printed circuit board on which a semiconductor element will be placed. The required LEDs are selected. Depending on the characteristics of the LEDs and the values of the current and voltage of the on-board network, the characteristics of the protective resistors are calculated. Using the calculations, the rest of the network components are selected (video by Evgeny Zadvornov).
Sequence of work
Before making the turn signals, you need to choose a suitable scheme.
Then, based on the diagram, make a printed circuit board and apply markings on it to accommodate future elements.
The assembly consists of a sequence of actions:
- First, you should de-energize the car by disconnecting the negative terminal from the battery.
- Next, you need to remove the old direction indicators and carefully disassemble them.
- Unscrew old bulbs.
- The joints should be cleaned of glue, degreased, washed and allowed to dry.
- In place of each old element, a new running light is installed.
- Further, the assembly and installation of the lanterns is carried out in the reverse order.
- After installation, the wires are connected.
At the next stage, an additional stabilized power supply is connected to the network. Its input receives power from an intermediate relay, and the output is connected to a diode. It is better to place it in the dashboard.
When connecting the LEDs, make sure that the anode is connected to the positive of the power supply, and the cathode to the negative. If the connection is not made correctly, the semiconductor elements will not glow and may even burn out.
Features of installation and configuration of running direction indicators
You can install dynamic turn signals instead of conventional LEDs. For this, a board with LEDs and current-limiting resistors is removed and dismantled. On the repeater, you need to tear off the glass from the case. Then carefully cut out the reflector and remove it.
In place of the remote reflector, an SMD 5730 board is installed, on which the yellow LEDs are located. Since the repeater has a curved shape, the board will have to be stratified and slightly bent. For the old board, you need to cut off the part with the connector and solder it to connect the controller. Then all the components are returned to their place.
To adjust the timing of the running LED lights, a switch is soldered to the microcontroller. When a suitable speed is found, jumpers are soldered instead of a switch. When connecting two pins to ground, the minimum time between LED flashes is 20 ms. When the contacts are closed, this time will be 30 ms.
Issue price
You can make a running light turn signal from daytime running lights. Their cost is 600 rubles. As light sources in this case, you can take "pixel" RGB LEDs in the amount of 7 pieces for each running turn signal. The cost of one element is 19 rubles. To control the LEDs, you need to purchase an Arduino UNO worth 250 rubles. Thus, the total cost will be 1060 rubles.
All those who have seen a more or less modern car and not for the second time, and if there was still a drive behind the wheel, have long noted one of the useful options for themselves ... People call it a lazy turn signal or a polite direction indicator. Its whole essence boils down to the fact that when turning right or left, the driver touches the direction indicator lever only once, without fixing. That is, it simply triggers the turn signal indicator circuits, but does not turn on this very switch. As a result, after the lever is released, the direction indicators work 3-4 more times, and the driver at this time can already go about his business, that is, completely surrender to the road. This option is very useful when you have to change lanes. Indeed, when the direction indicator lever is fully turned on, automatic shutdown will not occur, due to the slight steering angle, which means you will have to poke back and forth with the indicator itself or constantly support it with your hand on the verge of turning it on in order to simulate the turn indicator. And if there is such an option, then he just touched the lever a little and forgot. In general, we think that the essence of the work has been fully revealed, but now it is worth mentioning the possible implementation of such an option on your machine.
For what electrical circuits is a polite turn signal suitable for Arduino
Before you go all over the place about the production of a polite turn signal, you need to understand for which electrical wiring diagrams it will fit without modifying the electrical circuit in the car.
Here we are presented with two main options, different in principle. The first is when the turn signals turn on when you connect them as a load. That is, switching on occurs due to the commutation of the turn signal lamp circuit, in which the direction indicator lever itself is located, it is he who closes the circuit, after which the operation occurs. In this case, using our option will not work, since when the lever opens the circuit with lamps, we immediately turn off the possibility of light indication, even if a signal comes to the lever itself, then it simply will not go further.
The second option is ours, when there are control signals and there are output power signals. In this case, instead of the standard relay, you can put just the circuit that we would like to bring to your attention.
Relay power module which can be purchased online to control power loads
Sketch and diagram of a lazy (polite) turn signal on an Arduino
So, you can argue about using Arduino as a head unit as lazy turn signals, since this is also not an ideal solution, which has its drawbacks. Let's say you will need constant power after turning on the ignition, in order to ensure speed, it will be necessary to connect the power circuits. At the same time, the strapping itself from unnecessary radio components is, in principle, useless here, because in this case you can simply program a microcontroller and use only it. But this minus is also a plus, because everyone who has it can afford to program Arduino, and for microcontrollers you will also need a programmer.
Writing a program will be one of the most difficult tasks. Here, a beginner will have to spend more than one hour of his free time and studying the work of algorithms, but fortunately there is the Internet and we are. So here's a sketch.
Int switchPinR = 8; int switchPinL = 7; int ledPinR = 11; int ledPinL = 12; boolean ledOn = false; int i = 0; int z = 0; void setup () (// put your setup code here, to run once: pinMode (switchPinR, INPUT); pinMode (switchPinL, INPUT); pinMode (ledPinR, OUTPUT); pinMode (ledPinL, OUTPUT); Serial.begin (9600 );) void loop () (// put your main code here, to run repeatedly: // 2 label: if (digitalRead (switchPinR) == HIGH && digitalRead (switchPinL) == HIGH) (digitalWrite (ledPinR, HIGH) ; digitalWrite (ledPinL, HIGH); i = 0; while (i<7) { ledOn = !ledOn; digitalWrite(ledPinR, ledOn); digitalWrite(ledPinL, ledOn); delay(400); i++; z++; if (digitalRead(switchPinL) == LOW && digitalRead(switchPinR) == LOW && z>= 7) (break;))) else (digitalWrite (ledPinR, LOW); digitalWrite (ledPinL, LOW); z = 0;) // alarm loop if (digitalRead (switchPinR) == HIGH && digitalRead (switchPinL) == HIGH) (goto label;) // Right turn signal. if (digitalRead (switchPinR) == HIGH) (digitalWrite (ledPinR, HIGH); i = 0; while (i<7) { ledOn = !ledOn; digitalWrite(ledPinR, ledOn); delay(400); i++; z++; if (digitalRead(switchPinR) == LOW && z>= 7) (break;))) else (digitalWrite (ledPinR, LOW); z = 0;) // Left turn signal. if (digitalRead (switchPinL) == HIGH) (digitalWrite (ledPinL, HIGH); i = 0; while (i<7) { ledOn = !ledOn; digitalWrite(ledPinL, ledOn); delay(400); i++; z++; if (digitalRead(switchPinL) == LOW && z>= 7) (break;))) else (digitalWrite (ledPinL, LOW); z = 0;)))
In a nutshell, the sketch has 2 inputs and 2 outputs. In this case, when the input is positive, that is, a high level of the signal at the input (8.7), we get a certain number of blinks (z or i) at the corresponding output (11.12). In short, something like this. That is, if you want to change something in the sketch regarding the number of blinks and the outputs of the inputs, then pay attention to these variables. If it is necessary to change the length of the blinks, then your attention should be focused on the delay function.
Another feature of the program is a somewhat unusual exit to the emergency signaling. First, the left and right indicators are worked out, then the hazard warning lights are turned on. This is due to the fact that it can turn on only if the input is high at the same time at inputs 8 and 7. And this condition will be fulfilled only on the second cycle, because pressing two buttons simultaneously at the same time will not work just physically. The speed of the microcontroller will allow you to read the high output from some button faster and decide that this is still a condition for the turn signal, and not an alarm. Although you should not bother about it, except that it will be problematic to say thank you on the road.
Features of connecting a lazy (polite) turn signal to an Arduino in a car
Do not use pin 13 as an output, since each time the power is turned on, the indicators that will be connected to this output may flicker.
When switching from control signals to power signals, use the corresponding blocks purchased on the Internet or assembled by you. We have already talked about such blocks - modules.
When receiving signal 1 from a voltage of 12 volts, put a 10 ohm resistor in front of the input.
That's actually all the parting words for making a lazy turn signal for a car on an Arduino microcontroller, and now about the same in the video ...
I said last year "Gop" - it's time to jump :)
Rather, make the promised review of the running turn signals.
I ordered 1 meter of black tape WS2812B (144 LEDs) in a silicone tube, when ordering I chose "Black 1m 144led IP67" (perhaps someone will like the white color of the substrate, there is such a choice).
A little caveat
I received a tape welded from two half-meter pieces. The disadvantage of this is the vulnerable spot of the solder (contacts may be broken over time) and the increased gap between the LEDs.
Before buying, check with the seller for this moment 
Contact wires were soldered to the tape on both sides for serial connection of several pieces, since I did not need this, then I sealed off the wires on one side, sealed everything with a neutral sealant and wound a little more black electrical tape.
Attached to glass with double-sided transparent adhesive tape, for example.
Installation details
He degreased the surfaces, first glued adhesive tape to the tube (I will call it that, even though the cross-section is rectangular), cut off the protruding excess of a wider tape, pushed the edges of the tube into the slots between the ceiling and the upper parts of the decorative panels of the rear pillars (I hid the contact wires with a connector behind one panel ), centered it and began to press it against the glass, slowly pulling out the protective layer of the tape.
Unfortunately, there is no video - there were no free hands for shooting, and everyone's cars are different.
If something is not clear - ask in the comments.
The summer heat test was successful - nothing came off or floated.
The only negative is that the angle of inclination of the glass is shallow, the LEDs shine more upward. On a sunny day it is difficult to see, but since these are duplicate signals, then 
Now let's move on to the electronic stuffing.
I have used, but not so long ago discovered
For about the same cost, we get more buns
The sketch will work on Wemos without any special alterations when programming in the Arduino IDE, and if you implement a small web server, then when connected to it via Wi-Fi, you can change the values of variables such as the delay time between flashes, the amount of deceleration during emergency braking etc.
Here in the future, if someone is interested in implementing a project on the ESP8266, I can post an example for changing the settings via the web interface, saving them to EEPROM, and then reading them.
The web server can be launched, for example, through a turned on turn signal and pressing the brake pedal when the ignition is turned on (in the setup procedure, interrogate the state of the corresponding inputs).
For the implementation of the flashing mode with sharp braking, was purchased
The sketch tracks the level of deceleration when the brake pedal is pressed, if it exceeds 0.5G (sharp deceleration, but without squealing brakes), then a flashing mode is turned on for a few seconds to attract additional attention.
Control signals to the Arduino inputs from the "plus" of stops, turn signals and reverse are fed through galvanic isolators - optocouplers with current-limiting resistors, which ultimately form a LOW level at the Arduino inputs (they are constantly attracted to positive through 10kOhm resistors).
Power supply - 5 volts via a DC-DC buck converter.
The whole thing is folded as a sandwich and packed in a suitable box, on which an arrow marked the direction of installation for the correct orientation of the gravity sensor
Scheme and photo
The rating of the pull-up (to positive) resistors is standard - 10 kOhm, the optocoupler current limiting resistors are 1 kOhm. I dropped the optocouplers from the old boards, two got PC123, two - PC817. 
In the first photo you can see two additional conclusions, I made them for the turn signals. Since in my car, when the steering column lever is turned on, a short to ground occurs, I connected the wires to the lever block and the Arduino inputs. If the steering column lever commutes plus or take the signal from the "+" bulbs of the left / right turn signals, then connect them through a galvanic isolation. 
Well, now the sketch itself (Arduino IDE)
#include
I tried to comment on it as much as possible, but if I have any questions, I will try to add comments (therefore, I place it in the text of the review, and not in the attached file). By the way, this also applies to other points of the review - I will also supplement it if there are significant questions in the comments.
And finally, a demonstration of work (for the video I used a sketch with a demo mode).
Upd. The sketch with the demo mode was made specially to fit everything into one short video.
The brake light flashes only when braking suddenly (described above), when smoothly and standing in traffic jams, it simply lights up, without irritating the drivers behind.
The brightness in the dark is not excessive. the lights are directed more upward than backward due to the tilt of the glass.
Standard lights work as usual, this strip duplicates them.
I said last year "Gop" - it's time to jump :)
Rather, make the promised review of the running turn signals.
I ordered 1 meter of black tape WS2812B (144 LEDs) in a silicone tube, when ordering I chose "Black 1m 144led IP67" (perhaps someone will like the white color of the substrate, there is such a choice).
A little caveat
I received a tape welded from two half-meter pieces. The disadvantage of this is the vulnerable spot of the solder (contacts may be broken over time) and the increased gap between the LEDs.
Before buying, check with the seller for this moment 
Contact wires were soldered to the tape on both sides for serial connection of several pieces, since I did not need this, then I sealed off the wires on one side, sealed everything with a neutral sealant and wound a little more black electrical tape.
Attached to glass with double-sided transparent adhesive tape, for example.
Installation details
He degreased the surfaces, first glued adhesive tape to the tube (I will call it that, even though the cross-section is rectangular), cut off the protruding excess of a wider tape, pushed the edges of the tube into the slots between the ceiling and the upper parts of the decorative panels of the rear pillars (I hid the contact wires with a connector behind one panel ), centered it and began to press it against the glass, slowly pulling out the protective layer of the tape.
Unfortunately, there is no video - there were no free hands for shooting, and everyone's cars are different.
If something is not clear - ask in the comments.
The summer heat test was successful - nothing came off or floated.
The only negative is that the angle of inclination of the glass is shallow, the LEDs shine more upward. On a sunny day it is difficult to see, but since these are duplicate signals, then 
Now let's move on to the electronic stuffing.
I have used, but not so long ago discovered
For about the same cost, we get more buns
The sketch will work on Wemos without any special alterations when programming in the Arduino IDE, and if you implement a small web server, then when connected to it via Wi-Fi, you can change the values of variables such as the delay time between flashes, the amount of deceleration during emergency braking etc.
Here in the future, if someone is interested in implementing a project on the ESP8266, I can post an example for changing the settings via the web interface, saving them to EEPROM, and then reading them.
The web server can be launched, for example, through a turned on turn signal and pressing the brake pedal when the ignition is turned on (in the setup procedure, interrogate the state of the corresponding inputs).
For the implementation of the flashing mode with sharp braking, was purchased
The sketch tracks the level of deceleration when the brake pedal is pressed, if it exceeds 0.5G (sharp deceleration, but without squealing brakes), then a flashing mode is turned on for a few seconds to attract additional attention.
Control signals to the Arduino inputs from the "plus" of stops, turn signals and reverse are fed through galvanic isolators - optocouplers with current-limiting resistors, which ultimately form a LOW level at the Arduino inputs (they are constantly attracted to positive through 10kOhm resistors).
Power supply - 5 volts via a DC-DC buck converter.
The whole thing is folded as a sandwich and packed in a suitable box, on which an arrow marked the direction of installation for the correct orientation of the gravity sensor
Scheme and photo
The rating of the pull-up (to positive) resistors is standard - 10 kOhm, the optocoupler current limiting resistors are 1 kOhm. I dropped the optocouplers from the old boards, two got PC123, two - PC817. 
In the first photo you can see two additional conclusions, I made them for the turn signals. Since in my car, when the steering column lever is turned on, a short to ground occurs, I connected the wires to the lever block and the Arduino inputs. If the steering column lever commutes plus or take the signal from the "+" bulbs of the left / right turn signals, then connect them through a galvanic isolation. 
Well, now the sketch itself (Arduino IDE)
#include
I tried to comment on it as much as possible, but if I have any questions, I will try to add comments (therefore, I place it in the text of the review, and not in the attached file). By the way, this also applies to other points of the review - I will also supplement it if there are significant questions in the comments.
And finally, a demonstration of work (for the video I used a sketch with a demo mode).
Upd. The sketch with the demo mode was made specially to fit everything into one short video.
The brake light flashes only when braking suddenly (described above), when smoothly and standing in traffic jams, it simply lights up, without irritating the drivers behind.
The brightness in the dark is not excessive. the lights are directed more upward than backward due to the tilt of the glass.
Standard lights work as usual, this strip duplicates them.
I plan to buy +97 Add to favourites I liked the review +89 +191
Consider the creation of a running turn signal like an Audi, using the example of a headlight from a Renault Clio car. Let's make turn signals and DRL in one device.
What you need for this: LED strip consisting of ws2812b LEDs Arduino nano controller(can be used in any other form factor) Car charger for mobile phones with USB output. Since the Arduino controller needs a voltage of 5V, we will use this charger as a voltage converter from 12V to 5V. Voltage stabilizer for 5V KR142EN5V (KREN5V) or any other imported analogue. 3 resistors 10 kOhm, as pull-up resistance.
Connection diagram
The arduino controller must be connected to the car network through a 12V -> 5V converter so that the voltage is supplied to the circuit from turning on the "ignition". To the voltage stabilizer KREN5V, you need to connect the positive wire from the current turn signal. This article discusses the connection and firmware of only one turn signal, in order to make a second turn signal, you need to similarly connect the second LED strip to any free digital output of the Arduino (for example 7), as well as add the code for it in the firmware according to our example.
Controller firmware
To work with pixel LEDs, you will need a library
#include
// connect the library
Adafruit_NeoPixel strip = Adafruit_NeoPixel (22, 8, NEO_GRB + NEO_KHZ800);
int t, t1, t2, t3, t4, p2, p1 = 0; // time variable
void setup () (
pinMode (2, INPUT);
pinMode (3, INPUT);
pinMode (4, INPUT);
digitalWrite (2, LOW);
digitalWrite (3, LOW);
digitalWrite (4, LOW);strip.begin ();
strip.show ();}
void loop () (
if (digitalRead (2) == LOW) (// If the turn signal is off
for (int i = 0; i< 23; i++) {
strip.setPixelColor (i, strip.Color (255,255,255)); // R = 255, G = 255, B = 255 - white color of the LED, when turned on, we light the running lights
}
strip.show ();
}if ((digitalRead (2) == HIGH) & (t == 1)) (// check if the turn signal is on
for (int i = 0; i< 23; i++) {
strip.setPixelColor (i, strip.Color (0, 0, 0)); // extinguish all diodes
}
strip.show ();
for (int k = 0; k< 3; k++){ // цикл до трех - сигнал «перестроения» , при кратковременном включении мигает 3 раза,for (int i = 0; i< 23; i++){
if (digitalRead (2) == HIGH) (k = 0;) // if during the blinking of the turn signal we get another key signal, then reset the counter so that the turn signal blinks at least 3 more times
strip.setPixelColor (i, strip.Color (255, 69, 0)); // R = 255, G = 69, B = 0 - LED colordelay ((t4) / 22);
strip.show ();}
if (digitalRead (2) == HIGH) (t4 = t4 + 20;) // if all diodes are lit yellow, but the signal from the relay is still on, then we increase the burning time
if (digitalRead (2) == LOW) (t4 = t4-20;) // if all diodes are lit yellow, but the signal from the relay is still on, then we increase the burning timefor (int i = 0; i< 23; i++){
strip.setPixelColor (i, strip.Color (0, 0, 0)); // R = 0, G = 0, B = 0 - LED color
delay ((t3) / 22);
strip.show ();}
if ((digitalRead (2) == LOW)) (t3 = t3 + 20;)
if ((digitalRead (2) == HIGH)) (t3 = t3-20;)
}if ((digitalRead (2) == HIGH) & (t == 0)) (// check if the turn signal is on
t1 = millis (); // remember what time you turned on
for (int i = 0; i< 22; i++) {
strip.setPixelColor (i, strip.Color (255, 69, 0)); // when you turn on the turn signal for the first time, light all the diodes yellow
}
strip.show ();
while (digitalRead (2) == HIGH) ()
t2 = millis (); // remember what time the turn signal turned off
t4 = t2-t1;for (int i = 0; i< 22; i++) {
strip.setPixelColor (i, strip.Color (0, 0, 0)); // extinguish the diodes when the signal from the turn relay disappears
}
strip.show ();
while (digitalRead (2) == LOW) (
if ((millis () - t2)> 2000) (break;)
}
if ((millis () - t2)<2000) {
t3 = millis () - t2; // time for which turn signals go out
t = 1; // flag, we know that the time value has been saved.
}
}if (digitalRead (4) == HIGH) (// special signals
for (int j = 0; j< 16; j++) {
for (int i = 0; i< 22; i++) {
strip.setPixelColor (i, strip.Color (255, 0, 0)); // R = 255, G = 0, B = 0 - LED color
}
strip.show ();
delay (20);
for (int i = 0; i< 22; i++){
}
strip.show ();
delay (20);
}for (int j = 0; j< 16; j++) {
for (int i = 0; i< 22; i++) {
strip.setPixelColor (i, strip.Color (0, 0, 255)); // R = 0, G = 0, B = 255 - LED color
}
strip.show ();
delay (20);
for (int i = 0; i< 22; i++){
strip.setPixelColor (i, strip.Color (0, 0, 0)); // R = 0, G = 0, B = 0 - LED color
}
strip.show ();
delay (20);
}
}if (digitalRead (3) == HIGH) (// strobe
for (int j = 0; j< 24; j++) {
for (int i = 0; i< 22; i++) {
strip.setPixelColor (i, strip.Color (255, 255, 255)); // R = 255, G = 255, B = 255 - LED color
}
strip.show ();delay (15);
for (int i = 0; i< 22; i++){
strip.setPixelColor (i, strip.Color (0, 0, 0)); // R = 0, G = 0, B = 0 - LED color
}
strip.show ();
delay (15);
}
delay (500);
Do the same for the second turn signal using the code.
Video how our headlight works
