At the beginning of XX The century merchants (especially St. Petersburg and Moscow) was significantly different in their vitality from merchants - the heroes of Pieces A. N. Ostrovsky. Naturally, it found its expression and in costumes.
Disclaimed fructures, boots bottles, spots gave way to Frames and business cards, fashionable costumes, often sewn abroad, and the wives of merchants eclipsed often with their Parisian toilets and semi-ladies.
Yet the specific merchant manner dressed did not disappear completely and continued to exist next to the new, but so to speak, on the side of the road. Provisorial merchants left the faithful old manner, in particular from the Old Believers (they also retain their way and traditional merchant suit). It has been preserved in the middle and small shopkeepers, which at the beginningXX century dressed as rich merchants in the last quarterXIX century.
The peculiarity of the merchant costume was mainly not that the merchants wore some special things, which, besides them, did not wear anyone, but in combination of things. Some of them were borrowed from the "Lord", others had peasant origins, but, of course, retired from their folk samples with quality and high cost.
A traditional merchant suit in this sense extremely brightly reflected the social position of merchants, who came out of the peasantry and coming to the situation of the economically dominant class.
"The Lordsk" costumes entered into a merchant offense were a kind of stabilization, despite the fact that the fashion brought all new changes in the styles (let's say, the surtukov changed the notes, the number of buttons and so on).
The merchants wore improtes, fashionable in the 70s and 80sXIX. century, - long, fastening on four buttons on board (at the beginningXX Century in the use of general fashion included syrtuks with a fastener of three and even two buttons); The lapels were without silk, although in the fashion of those years it was necessary to cover them with silk, entirely or half - from Lajkan's loop. Often merchant futures (again in fashion 70s and 80sXIX. The century) was trimmed across the collar, challenges, sides and abbreviations (if there were cut-off) thin silk braid.
Merchant Sirtuki sewed from black and caster or castor; There were Surtuki blue, gray from shiny wool fabric - Alpaca or lustry. Gray improtes were mostly in the summer. Blue futures are sometimes sewed from textured material with a slide in a rutter or diagonal.
Buttons on merchant futures were very small, in size in a two-fiber coin, flat, covered with matte silk. Under silk, a button was hidden from the Burban (so as not to rust) became, asking for the ear. Buttons on board, behind and on the collaps were the same size. With cut-off, three buttons were usually closed, with one-sided sleeves, but they wore frouters and no buttons on the sleeves.
Sirtuct vests were carried with a deaf neckline - single-breasted or double-breasted, from the same material and with the same buttons (six to seven pieces on board), which is on the surpetice. If the surpetuk was covered with a braid, the vest on the spell was trimmed with braid, challenges (if they were) and pockets.
Particular vessels were very common (stitched from another material than a furout). Piece vests were cloudy, silk, velvet, with an embossed pattern. They were usually colored, decorated with ornaments or flowers, embroidered or wounded. Stamps they had the same as black vests. Silk and velvet, piece vests were almost always trimmed, and they were worn with coat, which did not have braids. Buttons at piece villages were different than on a surpetock - round or flat glass, horny or pearl.
The intermediate form between the surpets and the fashion - the main types of merchant costume was the so-called Siberian. Siberian from the front resembled a furout, but fastened tightly, and the collar had a postponed; She was fastened like a trip, on the left side on the hooks. Her buttons were crooked, like on a surpetice, but they played only a decorative role. From behind Siberian had fees, as in the trip. Sometimes instead of assemblies there were flat folds on the sides of the cut and two buttons likeon a suntuka or bekesh. Less frequently on Siberian was an ordinary surpear back. Siberian sewed from black or blue crepe or cloth.
Both Sirtuki and Siberians were sometimes made on a warm quilted lining, which gave the opportunity to wear them as an upper clothes.
The fashion show had a small standing collar, oblique or slotted pockets, fastened on the left side of the hooks, had fees or folds from behind. With these folds, sometimes cut on the back. Sew risers from black or blue cloth. In the summer, white cloth young merchants were also bought from young merchants.
The youngsters were worn as an upper winter clothes. In these cases, they were made on the quilted warm lining and were trimmed with fur on the collar, board, pockets and the cut from behind. Sometimes on such a winter rushing, small breast pads of the type of gazead type were made with a fur finish at the top of the pocket.
Under the Sutuk and the trip, the merchants dressed white or bright colors sprouts. They were linen, silk or satin, sometimes embroidered on the collar, tool and sleeves.
Inside the room (at home, shop, restaurant) most often wore a vest with one vest, necessarily decorated with a thick hourly chain of gold, silver or tompaca (the alloy of copper and zinc, similar to gold) with sinks hanging on it.
The shirt was swept up, did not fill it into the trousers, rejected by a silk cord belt with brushes or woven a narrow belt of wool; At the ends, it was also brushes; The zagka belt was on the left side.
Surctuka, merchants occasionally put on a starch low, turning out a collar. The tie served a lace with pompoms or a black bow, whose ends were hiding under the collar.
Pants merchants filled, as a rule, in boots. Pants were wide - type sharovar, with nasky on the top. They were sewed from the crepe or cloth in the color of the Sultuka. Often wearing trousers in a small cell or striped - brighter colors than a sleeve or a fit. There were also sharovars from Plisa (velvet varieties on a cotton basis) with a small pile. Plisses were predominantly young merchants or clerks.
The merchants also wore jackets, only double-breasted, with a fastener of three or four, or even five buttons on board, with a deaf neck, resembling Bushlat. Behind the jacket had a cut. Pockets were only the bottom. If the owner of the jacket wore glasses, then the left of the top was made by a semicircular slit pocket, especially for the case of glasses. The jackets were black or dark blue, from crepe, cloth or diagonal. Pants were from the same material.
In the summer they wore light gray or light brown jackets of the same style or single-breasted carbon black or alpaca. Buttons on the jackets were either the same as on the futures, or ordinary horny or coconut, with the sewing through the button. On the jackets from the alpaca buttons were often pearl. We wore summer and cherry jackets, single-breasted, with pearl buttons. Under the jackets of lustry, Alpaca or Cheruchi put on vests from the same material. Pants to such jackets were woolen.
The merchant coat was carried from a black or blue drape or cloth, double-breasted, with a fastener of five to six buttons on board and with a postponed collar, often covered velvet. The coat was long, got a cut from behind.
As already mentioned, warm fructures or pants often replaced the demi-season coat.
Some wore heavy long-haired fur coats, usually on ferret, raccoat or fox fur. The top of the fur coats was made from the caster of black or dark blue or from cloth. The collars of the rich merchants were beaver, often shawl. Collars from black doodle or skunk were common. On board the fur coats were sewn tongues with hinges, with which the fur coat was fastened. Often, the fur coats had fur wrapped from the same fur as the collar.
Fur hats served in the winter headdress. The most common - styles were round beaper caps with a dress from a cat or velvet. Under such a hat, a frequently lacquer visor (like a cap) was attached. They also worn black doodle capsus hagol caps and hats with fields, entirely made from black doodle, as well as doodle hats, reminiscent of modern "Muscovites". Less often met round hats. They were carried mainly in the province and not very rich merchants. The main headdress was a black or dark blue card with a diagonal with a cliff or a black lacquer visor. Merchant Cartus had Kanta (for rigidity) from the same material. On the lower edge of the near Silk lace was. With windy weather, this lace was fastened for a loop to a button of a surtuk or coat.
In the summer wearing white cards from cloth or grace, as well as gray lusher or alpaca. These cards were mainly with a cluster visor. Cartumes, unlike caps, selected straps did not have.
Sticks of merchant boots were quite diverse, there was a straight cut goalthe bench and the fact that it was much wider than the usual high boots. The boots were soft and solid footer (lining), chevrovy or lacquer. They also worn boots with "Hamburg transmission" (lacquered tops and matte heads); We also wore "hooks" - boots, in which the heads were not sewn, but constituted a single whole with the tops, for this head specially stretched in factories.
The boots had many folds (accordion). The more folds, the one was considered gorgeous. The folds were as thick as the finger and had a completely correct round shape. To do this, the round rope was sewn under the skin - the ring was obtained; Deepating half acetimeter, brought the ring again. There were five or six such rings on the boot.
Boots sewed both on the wounds, and without them. Socks boots had a round or extended shape. Some ordered special boots with creak. To obtain a tube between the sole and the insole, we made a gasket from Berestov or poured sugar sand there.
Violed and styles of the heel. Elderly merchants usually wore boots almost without heel. There were high-heel boots, small on the ground area, as well as heels with a removal from behind, which made them some similar to the lady's heel. Such a heel was called "in a glass".
It is curious to note that even under the pants, the merchants were often put on high boots instead of a boot or shtiblet. In rainy weather, deep galoshes were put on the boots, almost closing the head of the boot; We also worn high rubber or leather boots.
In winter, felt bots or felt boots with galoshes were put on the boots. Less often wore felt white felt boots, skin-skinned.
The gloves were worn only in winter and autumn, mostly black.
It is about the same way as merchants, some clerks and make-up, small shopkeepers and craftsmen, but their costumes were less diverse, easier and sewed from cheaper materials (cloth, chevit).
In about the clothes of Siberian merchants
Interesting the question of the clothes of merchants. Clothing is an important element of life, it indicates the national and estate personality of a person, its property position. In the literature, you can often find an indication of the existence of some specific merchant clothing. So, the English traveler Wallace McCenzie noted that "the Russian merchant never expressed the desire to be not what it is. He usually carries a dress indicating his social position. " However, in reality, the objects of the Siberian merchants' clothing, especially everyday, were mainly the same that the peasants and the meshans are, only richer and better in quality and more in quantity. In the front cases, the merchants were forced to give a tribute to European fashion, touched in the surpets, vests, shoes, and sometimes in trings and cylinders. But it was better and naturally they felt in boots with high tops, the carriage and in long-grained, insulated, from thick cloth of the furnuk.
In Siberia, the acquisition of clothing for each social class had certain sources. The top of the official apparatus and the largest representatives of the bourgeoisie could afford to order a dress or costume in the best sewing workshops of Moscow and St. Petersburg, whose owners bought samples of dresses from the best spelleds of Paris or performed them in drawings from fashionable magazines that were received from the fashion capital every two weeks. In the peasant life, the dress was manufactured in most cases on their own family. The main mass of merchants, like most citizens, dress and shoes were ordered from local masters.
In Siberian cities, there was a whole network of small tailoring workshops and single-handicrafts. The sewing fee was pretty high: so, for the sewing a furout was taken 8 rubles, trousers - 2 rubles. 50 kopecks, vest - 2 rub., Coat - from 5 to 8 rubles.
Over time, attributes in Siberia of the finished dresses from European Russia increased. Particularly intensified competition in the 90s. XIX century, after the Siberian railway j.d. and increasing the production of finished dresses in Russian factories. Prices for the finished dress at the Nizhny Novgorod Fair, with which Siberia's supply was carried out, in 1899 amounted to: 5-15 rubles for ladies' jackets 6-15 rubles., Sutuk and vest 11-20 rubles. rub. 50 cop., Coat Drap or Bobrikov on the cotton - 9-12 rubles., Coat on the barishment fur - 18-30 rubles. However, the factories of the finished dress were mainly medium and low-cost layers, while the rich clientele, not tolerance and requiring the execution of subjective capsies, remained the right port for a long time.
Favorite clothes of merchants was a suit with follow - short cafetan with a hook clasp, often without sleeves dressed under the upper clothes. In the summer, a short trip from the subtle cloth was combined with a vest, plum-shovers, filled with lubricated boots. The beloved color of the cloth in the guilds was dark blue. For the winter sewed a coat in the form of a coat on a cotton or fur. On top of the surtuka put on a cloth chuke or a fur coat.
Pleights, popular in merchandise, were a male long caftan without a collar and obscenities, which is usually stitched from the cloth, with a finish on the neckline and bottom of the sleeves with strips of fur or fabric. Even among the rich Moscow merchants, who has not yet denied the traditional costume, the chukes from the expensive cloth with a valuable fur were even the subject of the scope.
Characteristic for the merchants were also long-grade, insulated, from a thick cloth of a furout, nicknamed siberians. Siberian in its destination was universal and served as a summer coat and a representative costume. Famous specialist in the history of Russian costume R.M. Kirsanova wrote that Siberians up to the beginning of the XX century. They remained the "sign of small, often provincial merchants, burghers, shopkeepers, street vendors," and at the same time, "the old Siberian or Chukhu served" Millioners "means of the tower, deliberately expressing the desire to emphasize their estate belonging."
Winter coats wing with cloth or draded (dense cotton cloth). For trading, we often went to simple servers. Over all of Siberia, the Barnavel Barnauli is popular, which were produced in Barnaul. In bad weather or on the road on top of a fur coat or other top dress, sheepskin Tulup was put on. The usual shoes for the Siberian winter were boots ("Pima"), most often white.
As a headdress, men wore the cardune in summer, winter hats. Some merchants, especially Old Believers, preferred high, expensive beaver caps. Hair cut "in a circle" or "under the bracket." On holidays, it was in the custom of lubricating her hair with vegetable oil.
Women's clothing In a merchant medium was distinguished by a great variety. The most common women's suit was a dress with long sleeves from wool, silk, kisa, on top of which was put on a short sweater without a collar, brocked or silk. The widespread decoration was pearls. The caplea wore pearl threads on her neck, pearl earrings.
Here's as describes E. Avdeev-field clothes of Siberian Kupi: "First, all the checkouts wore skirts and sweatshirts, and on the heads head; The scarves were brocade, stale, woven, with gold camimicles, shied with gold, bell, canite; there were scarves for one hundred and fifty rubles; Houses were worn in sufficient and poor houses paper knitted caps. Now all young women, pickhams, dress in the same way as in the capital. Who will come directly from Moscow or St. Petersburg, that little will notice the difference in clothing. "
In winter, Salopa, fur coats and fur coats, fastened, furs. Women's fur coats were very diverse, they differed cover and could be covered with cloth, tald, nano, pliz, velvet.
A.V. Startsev, Yu.M. Goncharov
History of entrepreneurship in Siberia (XVII - early XX century)
Volobueva T.O.
Russian merchant suit second half of the XIX - early XX century
Annotation. The article discusses the changes that occurred in a merchant costume of the second half of the XIX-early XX centuries. In connection with the transformation of merchants to the social stratum of Novoruski entrepreneurs. As a result, the merchant costume lost the class differences and became one of the indicators of correlation not with the estate culture, but with the culture of the urbanizing introduction society. Changing the external appearance of merchants for more than half-power is traced based on the comparative analysis of memoir and fiction, photographs, reproductions and drawings of costumes, portrait painting. The transition to the Europeanized citywide fashion testified to the refusal of some conservative traditions, changes in mentality and social self-identification.
Keywords: merchants, costume, fashion, self-identification.
Changes that occurred in merchant clothing in the second half of the XIX-early twentieth centuries were due to the evolution of the estate from merchants of the old swarza to the Novorussian business community. In 1863, the third guild belonging to which merchants should have had a capital from 500 to 1000 rubles. Thus, people who have had a significant capital of a merchant class. In quantitative terms, merchants decreased, but its role in the economy has steadily increased. Expanded the scope of capital. Increasingly, merchant money was invested in production. Children of merchants, replacing their parents in the leadership of the family business, differed from them both by education and in the cultural outlook and on the knowledge of Western European life. First of all, it was related to the St. Petersburg and Moscow merchants, as well as to the merchants of Riga, Odessa and the Volga region. The bourgeoisie of the provinces, although it was numerous, but serious economic power in a long-term scale, as a rule, was not and largely maintained the Old Testamental appearance, therefore, if you characterize merchants as some kind of integrity, it is possible to distinguish the well-known separation of its position in Russian society, exclude "Low" and from elite culture. All this makes it possible to talk about duality, two-chopped merchants: on the one hand, the merger of merchant class was located, on the other, it was distinguished by conservatism, especially in behavioral terms. Moreover, splitness in clothes, it happened, met in the same family: fathers and children, husband and wife. A.N. Ostrovsky in essay sketches noted: "You see often a merchant in a suit of the time of Ivan the Terrible and next to him, his wife, dressed in the last Paris picture."
This splitness of the merchant types on the "elder" and "Europeanized" was reflected in the artistic literature of the time, especially in the works of P. Bobrykin and M. Gorky. In the novel, M. Gorky "Thomas Gordeyev" are the first to be represented by the Analysis of Church and Yakov Mayakin, the second - Taras Mayakin and African Smolin. Their mental orientation was expressed not only in relation to the human world, but also to clothing. At Church, "I was hoping a pink shirt from Citz, signed by silk belt, and black balls, tired in boots." Yakov Mayakin is depicted by a writer in the front dress: a long furout with medals on the chest (wearing a medal, the signs of the differences were considered prestigious in the estate-merchant). The young generation of merchants appearance is already different. The writer emphasizes and smoothly cricked the face of Smolina and beautifully sitting on its flexible body (i.e. fashionable) Sutuk. Taras Smolin is also fashionablely dressed "in such a special, fat fruct, with pockets on the sides and with big buttons."
In the middle of the XIX century. Russian merchants and in the text of life (family relationships) and in the household setting and clothing presented a commitment to class traditions. In 1850-1860, a merchant male suit mainly consisted of a long-range loaf of dark cloth, pants, refilled in boots or skirts, motley vest, shirt. Deviations towards European or Russian folk clothes were manifested in shirts. Russian Kosoporotka was without a gate, a European shirt with a gate and sometimes rushed with a tie or neck scarf. The same applied to the head fault. In Russian manner, it was a hat or a card, to a European - cylinder or hat. Outerwear was represented by a sintel with a pellin and a collar, then a chuka and bekeke, then a fur coat with a big fur collar. In the city, the merchants appeared in the coat. But in Russian dressed in a long road: in Tulup and fur hat.
The merchants of the older generation, often immigrants from peasants and artisans, preferred Russian folk suit. Note that the merchant activity has more influenced the dress and dress up on the manner than a state. For example, even a poor trader of fashionable goods looked more European, the more wealthy grocer.
On the clothes of the merchants had a strong effect of the costume features of the city. For example, in St. Petersburg, a city that does not have old folk traditions, the Western European dress was early adopted by the majority. The characteristic clothing of the mid-Petersburg merchant is a short, close to fashion shirt, pants at an eye and a shirt with a tie. The short merchant coat was somewhat wider and longer than fashionable. The merchant is dressed in a sphere and chuka here it was possible to meet only among the lower circles of merchants or old goods. Unlike Moscow, where folk traditions were strong, in St. Petersburg, the highest layers of merchants were dressed and more fashionable and more stricter, they were more imitated to secular society and more often focused on London fashion.
The female dress of the middle merchant circle depended completely from the taste preferences of her husband and others. In a varying period, most of the mines of the middle and young age were dressed in fashion. Older women wore dark flowers dresses consisting of skirts and free blouses.
According to custom, married women put on a merchant head made of silk headscarf, a grid or a knap. In the merchant medium, they loved the stuffing scarves with a flower pattern. To the casual dress could throw on the shoulders a mantile or a large shawl of bright color. In fashion were cashmere shawls. Products from the Pavlovsky Posad of the Moscow province used the greatest fame. Fan and Ridicul, on the street umbrella or coupling supplemented the suit of an elegant checkpire. In the cold season, the upper clothes served salop - wide swing clothing on the fur or quilted on the cotton, fluff. He could be from a plush, silk, cloth or velvet fabric. Winter Salopas of the rich kupi was chopped by Sable, Kunim and Fox Fur. Such salts, silk, with a beautiful pattern and decorated with fringe, are in the meeting of the State Historical Museum
Provincial juggles tried to keep up with fashion. A resident of Tyumen describes his contemporaries of the middle of the XIX in: "Young female merchant titles are dressed in dresses round, very squeezing with rich outfits and imitate metropolitan mods."
Women of merchant classes chose bright colors and tap tissues with a pattern, combining stripes and cells with bouquets of flowers. This was different from the aristocracy, whose fabrics were opposite the modest color and restrained patterns with a rich texture and subtleties of patterns. The difference in color, quality, drawings of fabrics in clothing when following the same fashion performed as a marker of class.
The dresses are predominantly bright colors for traditions put on the solemn cases of brides from merchant families. They had a lot of details that create a spectacular decor: hand embroidery - sting, tambourine, with dense and rarely planted nodules, in which the twisted silk thread of two pink shades differ from the color of the dress. The most favorite color of the wives and daughters of the rich merchants was pink. Right in the intelligentsia environment up to the twentieth century. The view that pink color is synonymous with the bad taste is refuted by one glance on the fragment of the elegant toilet from silk from the GIm collection.
Chujka (Male long caftan without a collar and obscenities) was a kind of "Moscow" cafetan, in St. Petersburg, it was much less common in St. Petersburg. Among the rich Moscow merchants, who has not yet denied a traditional costume, Chujka from an expensive cloth with a valuable fur was a subject of special scope. As the memoist testifies, the Moscow merchant-manufactory of fences "in the summer and winter went to the chuke and high boots with bottles, the head covered the card with a large lacquered visor."
Along with the chuka and the fashion, the running clothes was Siberian. She fastened tightly on the left side with hooks and had a postponed collar. Siberian buttons were idle both on a surpetuk and had only decorative purpose. Behind, as on the fit, there were fees. Siberian sewed from black or blue crepe, cloth. Sometimes Siberians were made on a warm quilted lining and wore as an upper clothes. Siberian and Chujka had long been held among the provincial merchants, shopkeepers, street merchants and burghers. They were the estate merchant marker. At the turn of the XIX century, when the class belonging to a large extent lost its executive importance, Siberian and Chujka, as the massive clothing of merchant class, began to disappear from everybody.
Very indicative of adaptive plan such a common part of men's clothing like a trip. It was a short lightweight caftan, as a rule, without a cotton lining, more often without sleeves. Winter trip usually dark colors was chosen to fur, but could have been on fur (in Siberia it was predominantly fox fox). Already her name itself indicates that the fashion trip was rushed under the upper clothes. In the summer, the fashion side of the subtle cloth was put on the vest and combined with pluric shaders. D.N. Mamin-Siberian in the novel "Privalov Millions" described the gold miner A.P. Lepihkin: "He was dressed in a velvet trip and a sieve shirt-spin; Sukonny sharovars were filled with boots with a bottle of herbal. " Another character of this novel, managing the Shatrovsky plants K.V. Buchaev: "Mr. average growth, a chunky and tight, in the doubled Romanovsky serpent coat and a black Merlushkoy hat," wore a clouded red ride and black harees, refilled in boots. According to the memories of M. Gorky, vodka breeder, old man A.A. Zarubin, at the end of the days the Tolstovist and the preacher of sobriety, called its activities to the "persecution of the truth", "walked through the streets of the city in a long black trip, in a ridiculous hat on silver hair and in leather boots with velvet herbal."
Under the Sultuka and the trip, the merchants, as well as the shredders, dressed spacer. Merchant spots differed from burghers more expensive fabrics. Sometimes springs were decorated across the collar, hem and sleeves embroidery. Being in the room, we wore a vest only with the vest. From the pocket of the vest, the thick chain was swore from the clocks with sinks on it.
There were such merchants who could "in people" to wear an upper European dress, although in everyday life dressed traditionally, i.e. They wore a Siberian or a long sleeve. As the researcher of Tomsk merchants, V.P. Boyko, merchants in front cases dressed in a European costume, but naturally they felt in long-grained, insulated, from thick cloths of fructs, the carriage and boots with high tops.
The merchants, unlike the mesh, loved long-oil coat. So, according to memories, N.A. Bugrov (Old Believers of the Plopovsky Consent, Millionaire, Large Trader Bread, the owner of the steam mills, a dozen steamboats, flotilla and barge, huge forests): "Big, cargo, in a long furout, like a fit, in brightly studied boots and in a long carriage ..."
Many older checkpoints, especially provincial, for several decades adhered to traditional women's clothing. Sundars, widespread in Central and Northern Russia, have not been inferior of their positions of European cuts for women's female dresses. In the novel, "Privalov Millions" describes a similar costume of the wife of the Ural gold miner V. N. Bakhalev, Maria Stepanovna. She had an ancient sundress from heavy silk matter, which she was very proud of. Showing this Sarafan, S.A. Vivalov, Maria Stepanovna, explained: "This is your grandmother Sarafan ... Pavel Mikhaylich, when he traveled to Moscow, she brought the matter ... now there are no such matter, - with a heavy sigh added the old woman, straightening the hand to the fold on Sarafne. - Now your ladies will salary , twice will be put on - and give a new one. Others went, and people are not like before. " In the words of this elderly woman, an emphasis is focused on the opposition of the former good, long wearing clothes, the European dress, with its rapidly changing fashion.
The picture of old-fashioned and novelty was a merchant, depicted in the novel by M. Gorky "Thomas Gordeyev": "There were a man of thirty, all solid people, the color of local merchants. Those who were older - bald and gray-haired - dressed in old-fashioned fructures, cards and bottles boots. But there were few such: cylinders prevailed, stabinets and fashion business cards. "
The longest for the traditional costume was kept part of the merchants, for many of which not only the tradition, but also the estate self-identification was important. According to the testimony of the prominent representative of Moscow manufacturers and merchants N.A. Found among merchants in the second half of the XIX century. There were expressions "walk, dressed in Russian, in German." Dressed in Russian wore long fur tails and pants filed in the Bottle boots. By this, they emphasized their estate belonging. Under the "German" dress should be understood by the entire European-style clothing. For a long time, such clothes in the perception of a simple people remained "German". Dressed in German were in shorter shirts, in starchy shirts and ties. At the group photography of 1879, the family of the Russian merchant meeting of S. V. Alekseeva (Father K.S. Stanislavsky) Young Stanislavsky, despite the fact that the photo is made at home, dressed on the male fashion of that time.
. "Westerners" were combed and cut the beard in fashion, and the dress was sewed at famous tailors. Such a merchant, V.M. Stalitsan, described in the novel "China-City": "The merchant origin was sitting in all his appearance; But the voice, the manner of pulling the words of the Naracev, the development of techniques, the words in Russian and French and the toilet did something from Viktor Mironovich. Something very little responding to the old living room yard. They sewed exclusively two Paris Budget Paris: Dyusota and Blanc. Ties, Linen, Golden Minor Things He wore Not other than London, "exactly such" as Prince Gallsky, from the same suppliers. In the morning, his slender torso spaciously drained the jacket. Low standing collars sticking out in the middle of the neck, leaving the color of the "Vert Merveilleux" colors ... His feet, in Prussian pantals, on a flat and long foot, did not particularly clarify shoes with brown cloth. "
In contrast to the merchants, dressed in old-fashioned and almost always, except for the house that went in the same suit, the merchants-Westerners appeared in different appearance depending on classes and places. Another character of the "China-Cities" Neuchakinkin Ermil Fomich, "Full, Blonde, not a very old, bearded man, in a short checkered jacket, on the sight of a landowner than Kommersant ...", wore a weekend business card on people, and then changed in black Sutuk. At the same time, he changed the hats: "It has a silk barn, high, and for guests - a sticky, which painters are worn abroad."
Even more watched the rich pupils. They often discharged their toilets from the famous Paris fashion designer, and merchant youth was constantly abroad. According to the memoirs of his daughter, Varvara Alexandrovna Morozova received dresses from the French fashion designers of the sword and the footage, and in Moscow - from Lamanova. In the article K. Pinnar, dedicated to the daily life of the merry town of Morozov, Varvara Aleksandrovna appears in the image of the exquisite lady: "Morozova Pudryl's shoulders, the French hairdresser Andre came to the house to make her hairstyle. Vera Ivanovna remembered the two evening dresses of the mother: one - red with gold, and the other is white with gold, both of the pleated fabric. Varvara Alexandrovna wore necklaces of emeralds with diamonds and sapphires, turquoise and diamonds, many of which were made by its orders to Khlebnikov's jewelry firms, Bolin or Faberge in Moscow. "
In the middle and lower layers of merchants, along with the traditional merchant shut-off and pants, filled with boots, could wear and fashionable short fur tails at the pants. A jacket suit in this environment has taken root as well as a long-proper furout. The top dress was distinguished by a variety and more depended on personal preferences than from the estate. Women of this circle wore dresses and sweatshirts with skirts of merchant style. Fashion dressed in fashion, the money was spent more on expensive matter than in the dresswork.
The idea of \u200b\u200bthe appearance of the travelers of the merchant class in 1890-1900. It is possible to make up the memories of St. Petersburg older. Women tried to emphasize the consistency of their families, demonstrating the luxury and high cost of their clothing and accessories. Dresses were from Lyon velvet, English thin cloth, silk. They often decorated with lace. Footwear trapped with original styles, often it was white husky shoes. Felt light gray boots worn in frosts. Regarding the jewels, it can be noted that the ladies from the merchant medium did not know the measures in this feeling. The abundance of rings, bracelets on hand, huge pendants on the golden chain. Golden chains were then in fashion, they wore hours, laorn and even clutches. Pearl and diamond threads descended on the chest.
Men's clothing of merchant classes at the end of the XIX century. did not differ from the one that was worn in the intelligentsia environment, persons of free professions - lawyers, doctors, etc. Costumes sewed from expensive material and not in tightness, but freer. Winter suit was usually dark tones, woolen. Merchant Sirtures sewed mainly from black and caster or castor, but there were gray furctures from woolen fabric. The furout was more authentic than usually worn at that time. The vest was carried from the matter of another color. Suituk vests were with a deaf neck, single-breasted or double-breasted. Pants were made to wear lighter tones, usually in a longitudinal strip. Gold was represented by mines and golden clock on the chain. The merchants also wore jackets, only double-breasted, with a deaf neckline. They sewed from black or dark blue blind and cloth. Pants sewed from the same material. In the summer they wore light gray or light brown jackets of the same style. Under the jackets put on vests from the same material.
Especially it is necessary to celebrate the upper clothes for the winter season. The rich trampihi wore Palants, stuck furious fur coats on the road or coat with a riding of valuable fur. The merchants were long, double-breasted from black or blue drape coat with a postponed collar. The top of the fur coats was made from the caster of black or dark blue or from cloth. The collars of the rich merchants were beaver, often shawl, or from a black doodle. Along with traditional Russian furs, the fur of a fur cat, skunk, doodle received. Increased fur trade turnover Famous Firm "Pavel Sorokumovsky with sons" and other mehowers.
Winter heads of the merchants served fur hats. The main headdress was a card with a black lacquer visor. In the summer wearing white cards from Sukna or Cherechi. These cards were with a cluster visor.
The merchants under the pants of the eye often put on high boots instead of a boot or shtiblet. In bad weather on boots, Galosh was put on top. In winter, felt bots or felt boots with galoshes were put on the boots.
The assertion in the merchant environment of the European costume was a direct consequence of the changes that occurred in this estate for the second half of the XIX century. Having visited Russia at the end of 1860, the English traveler M. Wallace, on the one hand, stated the commitment of the Russian merchant to the data, which, in particular, was expressed that "he usually bes a dress indicating his social situation." On the other hand, the traveler noted a significant change in the culture of a merchant class: "Now some rich merchants give their children a better education, which can be obtained, and some of the young merchants speak one or two foreign languages \u200b\u200band may be probably called educated people. In the play A.N. Ostrovsky "Not all Kota Maslenitsa", written in 1871, the merchant Ermil Ahov complies "Where are they going, those orders, old, strong?". And for this he had foundations: by the end of the XIX century. Mercury was not at all like their predecessors of the middle of the century. Petersburg memoirists noticed that "merchants in the youngsters in our time almost no longer had. Types of Ostrovsky moved into the past. " Lesse from merchants Alekseev K.S. Stanislavsky wrote with pride: "We were equal to the formation with nobles and aristocrats, who separated us the estate partitions were fell by themselves."
And yet it is impossible to say that the new bourgeois mentality was fully established in the merchant medium. Even a part of the Moscow merchants, not to mention the provincial, provincial, and even thickening county, did not always perceive innovations. Thus, Moscow merchants have repeatedly demonstrated their rejection of the aesthetics of the Art Theater in connection with the formulation of Chekhov's plays. As for the costume, the refusal of class traditions was not necessarily a consequence of changing the value system. Obviously, part of the merchants wanted to look in modern, not be among the "dense". Psychologically, they did not want to stand out from the total Europeanized mass. This was facilitated by the characteristic orientation for generally accepted norms of behavior. But, dressed in a European costume, many reacted to the challenges of the world around the world, in anticipation.
And yet education and education of life peaked their business. The assimilation of someone else's, as cultured and teachers installed, it is easier if a person has not yet formed his sustainable look at the world around. Therefore, merchant children with appropriate upbringing and education naturally fit into the changing sociocultural space of the collapses of Russia. And the costume became one of the factors of correlation itself not with the estate culture, but with the culture of the urbanized submarine society.
The merchant suit did not include any classrooms. Its formation took place on the basis of borrowing items of clothing, which created such a combination, which gave the originality and uniqueness to the appearance of merchants. Some items of clothing were borrowed from representatives of the upper seats of society, others had peasant origins, differing from similar folk samples in quality and cost. But for this current, the costume complex the merchants held while he had a socio-prestigious value as a class marker.
Throughout the second half of the XIX century. It was overcomed by merchant length conservatism in a suit. It went on two lines: displacing traditional elements of clothes with a European costume and a refusal from the old-fashioned costume in favor of the new fashion came from the west. It can be argued that at the beginning of the twentieth century. The tradition almost completely disappeared and the prejudices, having experienced in some groups of merchants to the old days, and in others - there was no way to fashion. This process was due to the modernization of Russian society and reflected the erosion of the estate partitions and the creation of a new urban public environment in which social status was already determined primarily by the property situation. At the beginning of the twentieth century It was difficult for clothes to determine - who represented the upper layers of merchants, and who is the upper layers of the nobility. Similarly, the lower layers of merchants did not differ in appearance from the wealthy bureaucratism. It can be said that the spread of the European Costume "Wright" is associated with the process of transformation of the merchant class to the Novoruski entrepreneurial community, or using class terminology, in the bourgeoisie. It should be borne in mind that the transition to a citywide European costume was only one of the indicators of this social transformation.
Literature
1. Abramov N. Tyumen city // Bulletin of the Imperial Russian Geographical Society. 1858, №8.
2.Boborcin P.D. China-city. - M., 1985.
3.Bekko V.P. Tomsk merchants at the end of the XVIII-XIX centuries. From the history of the formation of the Siberian bourgeoisie. Tomsk, 1996.
4.G. M. Cathed. In 18 tons. M., 1960.
5.G. M. Foma Gordeev. // Gorky M. Cathed. cit. In 18 t. - T. 3. M .. 1960.
6.zasosov D.A. Pyzen V.I. The daily life of St. Petersburg at the turn of the XIX - twentieth centuries. M., 2003.
7. Buy Moscow: Images of the departed Russian bourgeoisie. M., 2007.
8. Mamin-Siberian D.N. Privalovsky millions. Gold. - M., 1989.
9.Nidenov N.A. Memories of visible, heard and tested. Part II. M., 1905.
10.Sostrovsky A.N. Full Cathedral Opv 12 t. T. 1. - M., 1973.
11.Shona I.A. From the life of trading Moscow - M., 2006.
12.Ualles M. Russia. Translation from English. Ed. ABOUT. - TI. - St. Petersburg., 1880.
"Merchant suit in the first half of the nineteenth century" work performed Tyukpaev I. K.
A merchant - man (merchant), busy in the field of trade, sale. The profession of the merchant is known in Ancient Russia, in the IX - XIII centuries. At first, the merchants were wandering, subsequently began to settle in settlements where the largest commodity exchange was happening. In the Russian Empire, merchants, as well as the Cossacks, were allocated in a separate estate, with their status and serve. Kupchaikha is a merchant wife, or a woman written in a merchant guild. Kustodiev, "merchant", 1918.
On weekdays, the merchants wore a card (a type of capped), long, insulated, from thick cloth fructuk, high-top boots.
Buttons on merchant futures were small, size with a two-fiber coin, flat, covered with silk. The buttons in the form of coins were also popular. Sirtuki with such buttons were considered happy.
Wide pants (sharovari) refuel into boots. Often wearing pants in a small cell or striped.
Small merchants wore an insulated variety of a surtuk, which was called "Siberian". Siberian at the same time served as a summer coat, and a representation costume.
On holidays, the merchants followed the European fashion, put on shirts, vests, shoes, sometimes flocks and cylinders
Literally over a few decades in the middle of the XVII century, Yaroslavl was transformed - many merchant trading houses, other civil buildings, temples and prophetic religious buildings, has grown. All this was due to the reduction of capital from the merchants.
Let the city of Yaroslavl long looked provincially for a long time, there was a very active trade in the Volga. With the beginning of Troubles, merchants understood that only the strong central government would save them, which is why they so actively supported the militia.
Church of Nikola Wet.
The active cooperation of Yaroslavls with the British and Scandinavians in the middle of the XVI century led to the rapid trade growth of Yaroslavl. Of course, this was also facilitated by the ruin of Novgorod the Great in 1569 by Ivan Grozny, from where many merchants moved here.
Church of Tikhvin's Mother of God.
Many eastern merchants visited Yaroslavl. They were frequent guests here. The development of the regional economy could not not affect the development of the culture of Yaroslavl. There were the good traditions of the chronicles, there was a very high level of literacy among different layers.
Modest Mussorgsky, Boris Godunov - Opera in four actions. The king is so severe - or is it not a king? There is nothing on my head, so you do not understand what kind of chin. And merchants or other rich people could walk in the cafetans. Something he is in a hurry, although the hands wave.
And where trade, there, of course, and the Hanseatic Union is tightened. Where without merchants! So, by the way, I didn't remember whether they were the representative or they were only a great Novgorod, as the transshipment base used. After such festivals, you always want to re-read the textbooks of the story and and all sorts of smart books by the period, for which thanks to the participants and the organizers
Where is the photo report Novosibirsk - So, we go further. There is still a lot of interesting things ahead. At the picture of the USSR Museum, or the Siberian Beresta Museum). Located in a wooden house-mansion with mezzanine, which was built by Mikhail Nikolayevich Kulikov - merchant. It was in 1917.
* Rashaida Bride, Eritrea Photo: Carol Beckwit and Angel Fisher hidden for a complex mask called Burga, Rashaida's bride remains in solitude to her wedding. Muslim Rashaida are Bedouin merchants and camel breeders, originally from Saudi Arabia, who keep in themselves and marry only their own.
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Legend of the Daughter Day
In the XIX century, a merchant lived in London, owing a large amount of money. The payment term was approaching, the merchant could not pay, he was threatened with shame and prison. Taking advantage of the situation, the old and ugly Radovist suggested forgive the duty, if the merchant gives him his young daughter to his wife. Father and daughter came terror. Seeing this, the Rostovist suggested throwing lots: he puts two pebbles in an empty wallet - black and white. The girl should blindly pull out one of them. If it gets white, it stays with his father, and that for goodbye long. If black will be the wife of the Roshovist. They were forced to accept the offer.
But the girl managed to notice that the Rosovist put two black pebbles. She put her hand in the wallet, pulled out the pebbles, and without looking at him, as if she accidentally dropped him onto the path, where the pebbles were lost among others. "Oh, what an annoyance! - exclaimed the girl. "But the point is corrected: let's see what the remaining pebbles and find out what I pulled out." Since the second pebble was also black, it means that it pulled out white: he could not Roshovist confess to fraud with witnesses.
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Ivan Savvych Nikitin Another Russian poet who was born, lived and died in Voronezh. More than 60 romances were written on his verses. For example, "steppe is wide
Desert steppe
Why are you like that
We look overcast? "Or about the staff of the merchant who was driving at the fair, only here was the case in the initial editorial office:" I was driving an employee of the employee,
The merchant, removal, well done.
He became on the courtyard of horses to feed,
Attached the village of Gulby to surprise.
In the Red Shirt, Kudryav and Rumba. "Further events in folk romance have a lot of interpretations, Nikitin has such an ending in the poem -" Who are you, people poor, to light genera?
Who are you on death and convicts? "
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Photoprunks in Riga.Tomis - Ya.ru
Perhaps the most famous brand Riga - cats. Their ancestor and the patron can be considered a cat on the spice of the building, which in Riga is called "home with cats". An interesting story is connected with this home in Old Riga. The house with cats built for himself a wealthy Latvian merchant in 1910. He wanted to join the merchant guild, which the Germans were filled, Latvas denied. On this refusal, the merchant responded rather original way. He installed on the roof of his house a few figures of cats with curved backs, which demonstratively turned to the guild tails. The guild filed for a merchant to court, a scandal broke out. Court with stubborn Latvian could not do anything. Only after the merchant accepted into the guild, he turned the cats on his home to the other side.
Where are the merchant after such ridicule? To the sorcerer, is known. He listened to him and said: "I won't do you, but I can get the curls," I gave a flaw with a magical potion. But I told not just to rub it, and at midnight in the forest. The merchant went to the forest, but by midnight I was afraid, so suffered that on some Fyrk and crash, the flask threw and run from the forest! And the flask she overturned onto the Lily flower, so he became so curly.
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