We got to San Zeno (Website, Wiki) by half the sixth and, having remembered, as they were not allowed into the arena an hour before the closure and how they were expelled from the Venetian Palace, they were almost ready for the fact that it was completed in a closed door: all The four main churches of Verona are closed at 18:00. But a friendly girl at the checkout said: "Of course, everything is open," and did not attempt to get rid of visitors even at 18:15. Therefore, against the usual, you will be waiting for the story about the interior of the church, and then about the facade.
But first, sorry, a bit of history. (I, of course, I understand that for many of you, these endless names and dates are the Dark Forest, but for me personally such historic pages - just a soul balm, and all the names are practically relatives. It seems to me that when we are upgrading , Aware of the dates in the through chronology, even if only European, you understand much more than when you just look at beautiful or not very pictures. So if you don't like historical references, just go to the next paragraphs or immediately to the pictures.)
Saint Zenon is a rather interesting figure not only for Verona, but also for Europe as a whole. He preached in Verona in a difficult historical period, when Christianity was actively fought with Arian heresy, who had denied the one of Jesus Christ of God, and, as a result, Dogmat about St. Trinity. I must say, according to the degree of distribution, Arianism in some moments was, perhaps, even more popular than traditional Catholicism (though, no one then did not call him Catholic). On the other hand, the paganism has not yet been eradicated (it was especially possible to contribute to the confessed emperor Julian Apostode). Sv. Zenon is a lot of her bishop (eighth in the history of Verona) and from Julian, and from the emperors-Arian Constance and Valentine - one of the fathers of the church, dad sv. Gregory Great, even writes that Zeno became a martyr for faith, although It is unlikely, since his contemporary, sv. Ambrose, writes that the end was calm.
In 1508, in the Episcopal library taken out of Verona to Venice, a partially preserved manuscript "Insertion of St. Zenona" was found. Theologists and philologists find similarity with the works of Cyprian and Terertullian (especially in terms of the use of neologisms), and the mention of the Mauritan martyr Arkady is considered evidence that Zeno himself was from Mauritania, received a good education and, probably, got to Verona in Sweet Alexandria Patriarch Athanasius in 340 from here, he left the legend that he was a black man - however, no confirmed, although captured in the famous statue of the "laughing St. Zenon" (XII century).
At the post of Bishop, Zenon erected the church of St. Helena, where we visited a little earlier, I founded one of the first in the world of women's monasteries and the school of priests (a model of future seminaries), and also forbade use at the funeral of the Posterchers. At the same time, a modest lifestyle was led and was eaten by the personally caught fish, which was losing at the excitement of Adige. In general, a decent member of society.
However, worthy members of society were a lot of worthy members, and why numerous rulers, not only Verona, turned their royal looks in his direction - a big question. So, for example, the first church over the grave of the saint, according to legend, built on the roadway Via Gallica (that is, the road to France-Gallia) is not other than the Osthots King of Theodorich, the united of Italy and, by the way, Arianan. All the same St. Gregory is described as one of the miracles of St. Zenona Flooding 558 in Verona, what happened exactly during the wedding of the Langobard King Autari on the infamous Bavarian princess by Theodolinda: the water flooded the neighborhood above the windows of the Church, but did not pass the church in the church itself Further, threshold, although the doors were open - a miracle miracle, but the place for the wedding was clearly not accidentally. In IX century King Pepin Italian (He Karloman, the son of Charles Great) ordered the bishop of Rotald to build a new temple, which after 100 years destroyed Hungarian Highs (the relics of St. Zenon for the time of invasion were transferred to the cathedral). In 967, the church was rebuilt and consecrated in the presence of the German emperor of Ottone I. Finally, after the entire earthquake of 1117, the size of the basilica was increased, and after another 200 years built a new gothic apse and blocked the roof.
Oddly enough, after the Napoleonic conquest of Italy, the Church of St. Zenon was abandoned and stood in this form, until the end of the 20th century, when it was declared papal "small basil" and was restored. This explains the comparative brightness and clarity of the paintings, which we will now finally see. End of historical help.
So, the Basilica of St. Zenona is three-way, with high semicircular arches ...

And a very beautiful wooden ceiling on the rafters.

Somewhere in the middle it is divided into two levels above each other - a crypt and presbytery (as in many Ladyomanian churches). Let's go up first. Very long Presbytery ...

Fencing balustrade with the statues of saints in the characteristic "curved" gothic poses.

On a triumphal arch - traditional "Annunciation."

But the same plot, only in sculptural execution.

On the walls - frescoes, incl. Workshop Altikhero

In the gothic apse of the painting of the XIV century, three sarcophagus (found to the village of Saints Verona Bishops of Lupycini, Lucilly and Conditions) ...

And considered the main masterpiece of the Basilica, the altar image of the work of Manteny (1456-59, Wiki, St. Zenon is the fourth left, with a thick black beard). In principle, I would say typical of the revival of a multifigure altar, which would not deserve a separate mention, if not for Napoleon. More precisely, the Napoleonic army, which was enough all that lies badly, and dragged to Paris. Later, the French altar image returned, but not entirely - the limits remained in the Louvre (now there are copies). Sad story, forcing it to think: was it not the reason for the launch of the Basilica?

Go down now in the crypt.

Honestly, I have not seen such a big and desert crypt, I guess nowhere - nine arches in width and, probably, six deep. It is believed that the crypt is rebuilt from the oldest church, supplied by theodorich in the V century. In the depths there is a sarcophagus with a glass wall, in which St. Zenon is resting under the silver mask. It is believed that Romeo and Juliet got married here - which means that everything around breathes the most famous tragedy about love.

The image of Our Lady here is completely Greek, harsh.

Saints, though later, are also sad.

Plots ... Well, Christian. "Crucifix".

"Baptism of Constantine".

Seraphim just burns look.

Perhaps that is why on the rest of the capitals, the Sculptor Adamino da San George (1225) broke away.

"Adam Eve drove on a tree - the tree cracks, Eva fries."

The main part of the basilica, so-called. "Chiesa Plebana", i.e. "Church for mobiles," almost completely painted. Walk. Traditionally, the largest in the church is St. Christopher (2 pcs.). We collect them.

Romanesque altar.

Baroque altar.

Remains of very old frescoes.

Maria Magdalene? No, St. Agnes.

"St. Georgy with St. Zenomon, St. Ambrose and Donator." St. George, as always, handsome.

A ravenon looks out of gothic.

Later items: no longer clearly outlined contours ...

Even a hint of architecture (fragment "Annunciation").

Another OUR Collection: Recipes for the Mystery Supper.

Bread, wine ... and again crayfish, as in Coneleano - this time with cherries!

"Abbot and monks accompanied by the fathers of the church worship Madonna"

The whole wall of perfectly restored gothic frescoes.

Again St. George in the process of a miracle (dragon this time at least normal). Princess is attached.

Miracle St. Nicholas on the ship - Have you ever seen snow in this plot?

His present gift to three milenits. It seems if in the bag, as it is considered, gold, now they will become rich - but orphans.

Interesting, one can say, a unique plot: Beninho Holy Levels (Venigne) and Karo, recognized by the only worthy (or just the least disgusting?), Transfer the nettical relics of St. Zenona from the Cathedral in San Zeno Basilica.

Pay attention to the inscription. This is not exactly the case when Mom did not teach that it was not necessary to write on the walls - rather, on the contrary: these frescoes became a kind of "guest book" of the Church.

And okay would be the XIX century. - meet, for example, the inscriptions of the 1460th and even 1390

Finally, just portrait of a holy title on the background of the temple.

Honestly, by the main, from my point of view, the masterpiece of the Basilica of St. Zenon, we almost did not pass - they simply did not understand the description that the gates could be inside Churches, not outside, and honestly hoped them to calmly sharpen at the exit. AN No - Outside, now just oak doors, and the famous bronze gates are open and hiding in a small (in the thickness of the walls, in the width of the gate themselves) "hallway", lit by one excessively bright light bulb. (There and stand together, it is closely close, not what to shoot, so also gloves everything. Sorry, what happened.)
One sash of the gate was made around 1150 in Saxon Magdeburg - probably the same masters that they created the Magdeburg Gate of the Sofia Cathedral in Novgorod. The second sash is collected from the authorship parts of at least three masters, including Niccolo (which we already know about the cathedral and see again when we look at the portal) and Benedetto by Antella (Baptistery sculptures in Parma). Plots are different - from the Old Testament and New Testament scenes to the lives of St. Zenon and the "portraits of contemporaries" - Matilda Kozosna and his spouse Gottfried, a lot of sacrificing to the restoration of the temple and abbey. Let's try to figure out.
Instead of separating sushi from the water - it is not clear how the Greek plot came here: Talassa, mother of water, and gay, mother of the Earth.

"Creation of Eve, original sin."

"Abel and Cain".

"Moses gets the covenant of the covenant, the rod of Aaron flources the almond tree."

"The Trinity Phenomenon Abraham, Abraham informs the joyful news of Sarah."

"Abraham's contract with God."

"Gandalf Valaam and Oscray."

"Cave action" (the largest, with a hole on the knee - Nebuchadnezzar).

"Tsar Solomon".

"Salome dance" (here it is flexible). The head was brought, the head was taken ...

Although the "Condition of the Head of John the Forerunner" in another picture.

"Flight to Egypt."

"Last Supper"

"Crucifix".

"Descent to hell."

"Ascension".

One of the wonders of St. Zenon, more precisely, its completion (beginning in Vika), recorded by Veronian notary coronato. One day, the demon was united to the daughter of Emperor Galleen (who lived, 100 years earlier, so it is likely to be about his thesis, Verona Patricia, but who is worried about such particular particular?). St. Zenon expelled the demon, and the emperor in gratitude offered him the crown. Zenon refused and took the money, which was let down, just for the construction of the cathedral.

Kings and prophets.

Matilda and Gottfried.

It is argued that this is the lion.

And you, mask, I do not know.

A kinda girl-a dressing man even gave us a cloud and take a few pictures (although in the lapidarium we, of course, did not get and identify the tombstone of one of the scaligers could not either). Clorter, as you can see, without a traditional well in the center (where four paradise rivers come from), but with an indoor gazebo - in my opinion, this is quite rare.

Here, too, painting, albeit later, but to disassemble them, you need a little longer time and desire. Probably, this is a fragment of the "terrible court" with the image of the fire of fire.

As for the facade of the cathedral (to shoot which was already in deep twilight), it is also traditional, and not traditional. Traditionality lies in the windows-bifors (in Verona, by the way, everywhere laid down, so this is not bi-, and nophoras), a high porch with a visor and embossed images of months, two John and two pumps in the already familiar postures.

Well, lions, of course, where without them.

No less traditional bas-reliefs with scenes from the Old and New Testament.

Easily recognize, for example, "Creating Animals", "Creating Adam" ...

... "Creation of Eva", "original sin" ...

... "Exile from Paradise", "Proceedings of the progenitors" (Eva, by the way, does not dig, but feed Abel and Cain) ...

... "Annunciation, Creation and Christmas" ...

It can be seen that the sculptor Gulielmo (the New Testament) in the use of Burava goes a little further than his senior colleague Niccolo, which will be "branded" Kretento.

Non-traditional moments are focused on the bottom of the relief: this illustrations to the widespread "legend about theodorich" then received the widespread dissemination. The first scene concerns the fight of theodorich and his opponent, the leader of the Gunnov of the Odacra. It is believed that the Odacre, killing the last Roman emperor, put an end to the Western Roman Empire. Theodorih with Odorak fought for many years (one of the first of their battles happened just near Verona, after which theodorih built a church dedicated to St. Zenon).
So, the legend states that theodorih and Odacre came together in a duel, but could not find out who is stronger. Then Odorakre invited theodorich in his capital, equal to the owner of the house killed by theodorih blow to his back.

At the end of the life of Theodorich, burdened by the treacherous murder and Arian heresy, which stubbornly confessed, saw a deer in the forest with gold horns (in the image of which the devil was embodied). Armed with onion and arrows, the king began to pursue him, but suddenly the horse suffered, shot to the very Messinsky Strait, he twisted him with one jump and rushed into the crater of Etna Volcano, who was considered the entrance to hell.
In fact, theodorih, like his spiritual teacher of Aria, died from dysentery, and the murder of Odacra on the Peer is still questioned. So do it then to people good deeds. However, as they say, it is better to stay in centuries a negative hero than a banal asshole.

Lunting is also a rather unusual plot of the work of Niccolo already known to us. Rather, as is quite so ordinary: here is the title of sv. Zenon, baking devil ...

Slightly below - His wonders: the exile of the demon from the daughter of Galleen, the wonderful catch of fishermen (St. Zenon, as we remember, was their patron and often depicted with the fishing rod) ...

Handing to him Gallien Crown and another exile of demons, salvation drowning together with the wagon of the peasant, on whose eyes the demon lowered a veil, etc.

But what kind of plot in the main part? It turns out that on the edge there is an inscription: "St. Zenon blesses the Verona commune and presents the banner of Veronian militia." As you remember, it was the period of the Helfo-Gellazy spot, and the patron of the Church, Matilda Kosnoskaya, belonged to the Guelfov party, who spent the self-government of Italian commune cities under the spiritual power of Pope Roman - i.e. against the German emperor. So do, again, good people, I will say, remembering how many emperors did for Sanzno. On the other hand, in the end, Verona became the death of the Glerlin city, and they showed rare tolerance, leaving the central image in Lunting in its place.

And the facade is crowned with a large rose window, made by Master Brioroto (familiar to us by Baptistery). It represents an unusual plot for the Christian church - the "Fortune Wheel".

Yesterday you were upstairs ...

Today upside down flying down.

On the other hand, tomorrow will again rise again.

There will be a new day and a completely different life. And we were waiting for Mantua's day.

to be continued

The old Basilica San Zeno-Maggiore survived a lot of destruction for his story and rebelled from the ruins many times. The first church at this place appeared in the 5th century at the direction of the King of Theodorich, who had commanding the chapel over the grave of the bishop of Zenon Verona. This holy (by the way, from North Africa) was already very revered in. In one of the ancient manuscripts, there is even a mention of the next miracle: when the city flooded during flooding, the water allegedly stopped right in front of his church threshold.

In the 9th century, the old basilica was destroyed and in her place built a new temple - also specifically for the reservoirs of St. Senon. He stood near a century, and after it was almost demolished from the face of the earth during the war with the Hungary. In the period when the preserved crypt of the church was experiencing a restoration, the relics were kept in the Cathedral, and after them returned to the place.

Finally, in 967, the Basilica San Zeno-Maggiore was completely rebuilt again. In a modern building, we can observe individual elements of the construction of those years, after all, later the temple was still restored after the earthquake of 1117, expanded and rebuilt. In the 11th century, the bell tower was erected here, and in the 13th century, a Benedictine monastery was built next to the basilica.

Over time, the monastery has ceased to exist, and by the 19th century, the church itself was muffled and was forgotten by parishioners. Its restoration, already as a historical monument, began only in 1993. Today it is not only a significant tourist object, but also by the current temple.

How to get to Basilica San Zeno-Maggiore

Basilica San Zeno-Maggiore is located at Piazza San Zeno Square, which is on the left bank of the Adige River. This is a sufficiently lively area with a good transport junction, there are several famous hotels and restaurants.

The exact address: Piazza San Zeno, 2, 37123 Verona, Italy

How to get from Verona Station:

Option 1

On foot:1.6 kilometers through Circonvallazione Oriani and Circonvallazione Maroncelli. The time on the way will be about 20 minutes.

Option 2.

Bus:route №91 to stop P.Za Corrubbio 6.

On foot:200 meters. Follow the southwest by Vicolo Dietro Caserma Chiodo towards Piazza Corrubbio. Turn right to Via S. Procolo. The destination will be right.

Basilica San Zeno-Maggiore on the map

What to see

Basilica San Zeno-Maggiore was built with three nefams - the highest central and lower side. It is made of golden-pink tuff, and the facade is decorated with a marble portal. Two high columns, framing entrance, rest in Figures of Lviv, and at the top you can see the marble statues of two saints - John the Theologian and John the Baptist. Above the front door is the bishop itself, surrounded by warriors and riders. So luxurious design created the Italian Master Nikolo, who also worked on the decoration of the Cathedral of Verona.

In addition, on the facade of Basilica, you can see marble bas-reliefs with scenes from the Holy Scriptures, as well as plots of some local legends. In a word, not yet hitting inside, visitors spend a lot of time, considering these skillfully carved scenes and the original architecture of the temple. The largest element of the facade is the round window of the Architect Brior. He was called "Wheel of Fate" because of the six figures of people located around the circumference - some of them depict joy, others in despair.

The window on the facade of the Basilica is called "Wheel of Fate", and the Figures around the perimeter of the window depict the joy and despair

The Basilica Gate of San Zeno-Maggiore is no less interesting. Lined with 48th bronze signs, they deserve separate attention. On each plate - one of the scenes of the Bible, and also here you can find scenes from the life of Zeno Verona.

What interesting inside

Many tourists agree that inside the Basilica San Zeno-Maggiore looks much more effectively than outside. There is something to see - a majestic interior with columns rich in finishing, balustrade and marble statues.

In Presbyteria, you can see the ancient fresco of the artist's hand of Alticierro with the image of the Virgin Mary, it dates back to 1397. Here is the cross of the 14th century and Triptych, manufactured in the 16th century. The author of the latter became the famous Italian artist Andrea Manteny. Interestingly, part of this triptych is currently stored in the Louvre. During the invasion of Napoleon in Italy, it was exported from Verona, and after returned back to the basilica, but without the bottom panels (instead you can see copies).

Presbyteria from the rest of the Space of the Church separates an elegant balustrade - a real work of art. It is decorated with a statue of 12 apostles led by Jesus Christ, and a little further can be found the sculpture of St. Senon, the authorship of which is still unknown.

But the main value of Basilica San Zeno-Maggiore is, of course, a transparent cancer with the relics of the patron of Verona. She is located in the dungeon - church crypt, where visitors are allowed to go on a tour. In addition to tourists, many pilgrims come here every year.

Finally, another interesting place in Basilica is the covered gallery (club), adjacent to the main building. There are several tombstones of the Middle Ages, as well as a collection of antique inscriptions. Yes, and the walk along the double colonnade with arched openings will like even those who are indifferent to the old architecture.

Opening hours and ticket costs

Basilica San Zeno-Maggiore is ready to take guests:

• From March to October - from 8:30 to 18:00.

On Sundays, it is available for tourists no earlier than 12:30, regardless of the time of the year (Mesia passes in the church).

We look for topical information on.

Tours

As the Basilica of San Zeno-Maggiore is a valid temple, the mass is regularly held here, the organ sounds. For believers, the entrance, of course, is free. Tourists can go here on the tour, the cost of the ticket is 2.5 euros ( ~ 172 rub. ). Or you can buy Verona Card and free to visit this church among other historic buildings and museums of Verona.

Together with the ticket visitors issued an audio guide in Russian - you can learn the history of the church and its main attractions. The price includes a visit to the dungeon to the relics of St. Senon. Almost everywhere allowed to take photos. The duration of the lecture of the audio guide is about half an hour, but on a tour it is worth allocating at least one and a half hours, because there is still a cozy inner courtyard, where it is easy to sit in silence, enjoying the atmosphere.

Panorama Basilica San Zeno-Maggiore in Verona

Basilica San Zeno-Maggiore is an amazing place where the time seems to be stopped, where you want to think about eternal values. When you decide to leave the temple, we recommend lining on Piazza San Zeno Square - on Sundays there is an antique market there and you can buy original souvenirs. After you go to other interesting sites of Verona - literally at 10-15 minutes walk away is the Arsenale Franz Josef I Museum and the Vintage Castelvekio Castle.

Business card

The address

Piazza San Zeno, 2, 37123 Verona VR, Italy

Official site

Working hours

From November to February - from 10:00 to 17:00;
From March to October - from 8:30 to 18:00

On Sundays, visits are allowed no earlier than 12:30

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Basilica San Zeno-Maggiore in Verona is known for the fact that the relics of Saint Zenon Verona are kept in it (Zenone da Verona). In its modern form, the Basilica was built in the 10th century on all canons of the Romanesque style.

The history of the occurrence of Basilica San Zeno-Maggiore

At the burial site of Zenon Verona, who was the first Bishop of Verona, the little church was originally built. Works were conducted in the 5th century by order of the theodoric of the Great.

With King Pipina in the 9th century it was decided to destroy the former church to build a new structure in her place. In the re-built church, the remains of Saint Zenon moved. However, this church also stood for a long time - in the 10th century the building was very injured during the war with the Hungary.

In the same period of the 10th century, modern basilica in the Romanesque style was erected on the site of the dilapidated church. The new church was mostly withstanding an earthquake of 1117 and was already expanded and completely renovated by 1138. In the 14th century, they replaced the roof of the building, and also created a gothic apse and a ceiling of the central nef.

Not far from the Basilica is a separate tower, which was built in the 13th century. This is part of once who was near the church of the monastery.

San Zeno Maggiore Basilica Architecture

Externally, the basil is not very remarkable: a discreet romance style in the gilded-pink colors with a large window in the central part. But the central entrance with the gothic decorations and the inner decoration of the church deserves separate attention. It is here that the famous Triptych Andrea Manteny is located.

Photo: kiev.victor / shutterstock.com

Facade

Basilica San Zeno-Maggiore consists of three nears. For its construction, a golden tuff from Verona was used. In the middle of the basilica, marble inserts are made, which depict scenes from a terrible court. Their author is sculptor brickoto.

Central portal

Over the entrance you can see the Gothic portal created in the 12th century by the Master Nikolo. He also worked on the central entrance to the Cathedral of Verona.

At the base of the column of the entrance are the sculptures of lions that tear down. The figures of John the Baptist, John the Theologian and the Symbols of 12 months of the year were performed on Portica. And the lunet of the portal is decorated with the image of Saint Zenon, which surrounds the warriors.

From the side of the portal there are 16 bas-reliefs telling about the plots from the Old and New Testaments.

Above the entrance, in the central part of the facade, there is a round window in the form of a rose. He created the same brickoto. Because around the circle of the window, the figures of 6 juggling characters are depicted, which are treated up with fate, then fall down, this window is called "Fortune Wheel".

On the gate of the Basilica are 48 panels of 12-13 centuries belonging to German masters. They depict 4 miracle of Saint Zenon and scenes from the Bible.

Interior decoration

Inside the basilica, two massive columns are distinguished that support the arch of the church. The main nub is based on two semicircular arches. Two broad stairs lead in the crypt.

In the Basilica, the font of the 12th century was preserved, which was made of solid Veronian marble. Also, the artistic value is two bowls and a carved altar with columns, at the base of which are the figures of the lion, bull and snakes, symbolizing evangelists.

The opposite Madonna altar is located on the baroque style. Also draws attention to the wide porphional bowl from Roman term.

And most importantly - the basilica is kept crystal cancer with the relics of St. Senon, which were found in the church previously located at this place.

Frescoes

A large amount of frescoes of 13-14 centuries decorate the walls of the basilica. These are images of White Madonna, St. Christopher, the crucifixions of Christ, Baptism, Saints George and Stephen. There is also a well-known fresco of "Madonna on the throne with saints", performed by Alticierro in 1397, and Triptych "Madonna on the throne with the angels and holy" work Andrea Manteny.

On the balustrade the statue of Christ surrounded by 12 apostles. The statue of Saint Zenon can be seen in a small apse on the left.

Clourter

The clourta was attached to the Basilica in the 12th century. Throughout the gallery there are double columns connected by arches. In one of the pavilions there is a statue of John Paul II. Among the medieval tombstones stored in the club, the tombstone of the family of scaligers of 1313 occupies a special place. In Lapidaria, a collection of ancient times inscriptions is kept next to the club.