Fuji x t10 photos from the camera. Anti-crisis Fujifilm X-T10: review of features and my opinion. Fuji X-T10: Specifications

Publication date: 04.08.2015

First meeting

Recently, on the pages of Prophotos you can increasingly see reviews of mirrorless cameras. The trend is that most amateur photographers, when purchasing a new (and sometimes first) camera, are increasingly moving away from the stereotype that only DSLRs can provide maximum image quality. Of course, there are situations when you cannot do without them. However, this statement applies more to professional photographers working in technically complex genres.

X-T10 / XF16mmF1.4 R WR SETTINGS: ISO 200, F16, 1/15 sec, 24.0 mm eq.

Today we have a hot new product - Fujifilm X-T10. It is designed to attract the attention of a fairly large circle of amateur photographers due to its wide capabilities and extremely attractive price. The price starts at 39,990 rubles for a camera without a lens, while for a kit with Fujifilm XC 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 OIS they ask a little more - 44,990 rubles, and for a “kit” with XF18-55mm F2. 8-4 R LM OIS) - . We'll be testing the Fujifilm X-T10 in a "Week with an Expert" format, publishing new parts of the big test every day.

The design of the X-T10 can be described as a “modern classic”. It is reminiscent of cameras from the film era, but is successfully complemented by new controls. Of course, there are settings here that were not available in cameras of the past.

The body of the new product is made of magnesium alloy, and this greatly affects the tactile sensations. It’s pleasant to touch, and you can’t find fault with the build quality. At the same time, the metal construction adds strength to the X-T10, but does not affect the weight at all. The weight of the camera with battery and memory card is just under 400 grams. Another advantage of the T-X10 is its compact size. The width, height and thickness are 118.4 mm, 82.8 mm and 40.8 mm respectively. There are two body color options available: silver and black.

The controls of our today's hero deserve special mention. For the most efficient adjustment of shooting parameters, there are not one, not two, but three control disks on the top panel.

The right one is responsible for entering exposure compensation. The range can be adjusted from -3 to +3 EV in ⅓ stop increments. Next to it is the shutter speed dial. Available values ​​range from 1 to 1/4000 s, but the full range of shutter speeds is much wider: from 60 to 1/32000 s. This is possible when using the electronic shutter mode.

To set intermediate values, there is a position T. There is also a BULB mode (position B) and automatic selection of shutter speed (position A).

If the exposure compensation and shutter speed dials are quite rightly inherited from their older brother - the Fujifilm X-T1 model, then the next disc is something new.

Located on the left side of the top panel, it serves, first of all, for quickly selecting the shutter mode and special shooting modes. We will dwell on its functions in detail in the next part of our review.

Of course, in addition to the appearance, it’s worth mentioning the filling of our today’s test subject. An X-Trans CMOS II sensor with a resolution of 16.3 megapixels is used as a photosensitive element. This is Fujifilm's own development. Its peculiarity lies in the atypical arrangement of colored elements, different from the standard “Bayer” model. It is the X-Trans sensor that is responsible for the proprietary color reproduction that makes Fujifilm cameras stand out from the crowd.

In addition, the X-T10 matrix was equipped with phase detection pixels, the presence of which should have a positive effect on focusing speed and accuracy.

Sighting can be carried out both through the digital viewfinder and through the external display, which is equipped with an inclined design. This feature is useful if the shooting point is located very low. The screen diagonal is 3”, resolution is 920,000 pixels, aspect ratio is 3:2.

Returning to the viewfinder, it is worth noting that it is made using OLED technology with a resolution of 2.36 million dots, and its diagonal is 0.39”. This size is more than enough for comfortable viewing; the observed picture looks quite natural. In addition, according to the manufacturer, the image response time is a record 0.005 s. So this is one of the best electronic viewfinders on the camera market today.

Nowadays, it is difficult to surprise anyone with a camera with a video function. This film mania did not spare our today’s subject. Available shooting modes include Full HD recording with a resolution of 1920 x 1080 and frame rates of 60p, 50p, 30p, 25p and 24p.

Unfortunately, the Fujifilm X-T10 does not have a headphone jack. But there is a jack for connecting an external microphone. Its diameter is slightly different from the most common 3.5 mm (mini-jack) and is 2.5 mm. However, it is easy to find adapters on sale that solve this problem. Fujifilm also offers a ready-made solution. Its MIC-ST1 microphone will fit perfectly with the Fujifilm X-T10 without the need to purchase additional accessories.

detailed information

Fujifilm X-T10 Kit Specifications Yandex.Market data

Fujifilm X-T10 Kit reviews All reviews on Yandex.Market

Rating 5

Advantages: 1. Lens 18-135 - finally shows what I always unreasonably expected from this kind of zoom and only now received: sharp and “airy”. Pentaxovsky was not lying around.
2. Excellent stabilizer.
3. Excellent color camera jpg. I compared the Panasonic LX-100 (it seems to have a rather large matrix, good optics and a high price) - but it’s better not to compare... It feels very authentic.
4. Different bracketing modes on the left dial are convenient.
5. In general, convenient, customizable controls.

Disadvantages: 1. The set with 18-135 is unexpectedly large and heavy (in contrast to the A1+16-50), in particular, sometimes the lower functional button is pressed inappropriately. The lens is slightly larger than the Pentax counterpart.
2. Taking into account point 1, the grip is not entirely comfortable. The correction wheel is a little tight (again, compared to A1).
3. I don’t understand the principle of operation and display in aperture priority. If you set control from the carcass, something will change the value. In the darkness (relative) it is not displayed yet.
4. The navigation keys are devoid of symbols, and without them it’s not entirely convenient (although this is a cost for customization).

Comment: I downloaded and installed the developer from the website (there is no disk included)... the well-known cut-down snare gave a color at least no better than from the camera, which, on the one hand, pleases (good camera), on the other, is slightly discouraging. .. In general, it seems that your favorite snare (even about 6.0.20) does not cope well with the latest cameras (Nikon 7100, the mentioned Panasonic, now Fuj).
In general, the camera fully lives up to expectations, taking into account some proprietary nuances (after all, there is a corporate color!) and a slightly inflated price (well, this, again, is the general policy of Fuji and the Central Bank of the Russian Federation with its support for a stable ruble exchange rate).

After several trips into nature, the impressions are the best. Photos (including some full sizes) here https://fotki.yandex.ru/users/vlminaev/album/222602/

Minaev Vladimir February 27, 2016, Ryazan

Score 4

Advantages: + A completely different approach to camera control. To achieve classic modes, you need to combine settings on the shutter mode dial and menu options. Most of the buttons are customizable, the drive dial (shooting type) is also half customizable. As a result, the two most popular modes A and M are fully deployed on two control dials (+iso on the front wheel), analog control turned out to be incredibly convenient, and there is no need to go into the menu during shooting.
+ The whale lens (16-50) deserves a separate review, but I'm too lazy. Good glass. Wide angle, high sharpness (ringing at f/5.6), no CA. In the dark, focusing is blurred, especially at the far end. There is also a drop in color and contrast at the far end. Ideal as a standard wide landscaper (16-23).

Disadvantages: - I discovered a bug when working with a Sony SDHC UHC1 card. When viewing RAW+F footage, “Reading error” appears on some frames. After this error, when viewing from a computer, jpeg turned out to be full (10-15% gray bar), and raf was not read by CameraRAW. I haven’t tracked the prerequisites, it arises spontaneously, now on one frame, then on another. The error was noticed only on RAW+F frames.
- When using an electronic shutter, the central contact on the shoe does not close, i.e. The flash does not fire. Why and why the developers made this software limitation is unclear.
- The noise reduction is too aggressive. With iso6400 at NR +2, it turns the people in the frame into anime heroes. At 0 it’s better, but there is still software and a significant drop in sharpness. Optimal, but not ideal -2, even at this value there is practically no microcontrast. You can't get a perfectly sharp shot at ISO above 1600 with this camera. Perhaps in the future they will release new firmware with more gentle noise reduction algorithms. So far only NR -2, always.

Comment: ± There is noise at all ISO values, but it is predominantly brightness related. At 6400, the noise is certainly obvious, but its structure is similar to film grain. The ones above are no longer a fountain, but with some processing you can get something out of them. I shot at night on iso25600 - a couple of filters, b/w, resize and frame can be easily added to an album. At the same time, low micro-contrast is observed at all ISOs, which, coupled with noise reduction, can significantly blur the image.
± EVI pleased me with the lack of brakes and high resolution, of course there is a lot of interference in poor lighting, but you quickly get used to it and they do not interfere with focusing. But the size, or rather the slight increase in EVI and its small window do not allow the eye to relax.
± The case is assembled tightly, the materials (semi-metallic alloy/plastic/rubber) are quite pleasant and, judging by the forums, wear-resistant. But still there is a feeling of a “toy”. When I saw the camera, I expected to feel the weight and coldness of a rangefinder from the 1970s, but in my hands I found warm, airy plastic with “proud” Made in Taiwan on the lid... The ergonomics of the body are designed only for shooting with two hands and carrying the camera on a neck strap. The leather half-case (China, thank you) significantly improved the grip and allowed the use of a wrist strap.
***
This camera is unlikely to be suitable for reportage photography or hunting photos. Features of the X-Trans matrix, high working ISO and beautiful noise, but a significant loss of micro-contrast. It is this balance between the two characteristics of the matrix that is Fujifilm’s “trick”.
Overall, I’m pleased with the camera as an artistic tool; I use it with ancient Japanese optics; in this combination, the matrix shows itself in all its glory. The x-t10 fully justifies its marketing position “for amateur enthusiasts”.

Kolmakov Alexey February 15, 2016, St. Petersburg \Using experience: several months

Rating 5

Advantages: Quality of photos in a jeep, convenient controls, balanced size and weight, design.

Disadvantages: price in Russia

Comment: I have been interested in photography for a long time, about twenty years, but without fanaticism. I have used Nikon, D60-300-3100-7000-3300-7100 for the last 10 years. I tried almost all lenses available to me (20-50 tyres), except for specialized and exotic ones: Sigma, Tamron, and Nikon, 5-7 pieces each. I searched for a long time and unsuccessfully for the most important thing for me: a detailed picture with natural colors straight from the camera, without having to navigate through the menu for 15 minutes before each photo. For testing, I bought everything that appeared on sale up to 50 sput, DSLRs, compacts, it doesn’t matter, all without results. Two weeks ago I bought a Fujik XT10/18-55 and realized that the search was over, I got what I had been looking for for so long. The picture is excellent, fully meeting the requirements.
If my approach is relevant to you, do not waste time and money, use the experience.
I would like to add to the comment after some time has passed, or rather today, 12/22/2015. I am satisfied with the camera to the point of..... I don’t even know to what extent, any superlative degree will do. Don’t listen to anyone, if you don’t want hassles in the form of processing in editors (but then you can buy any camera where the Ravs are good), if you need a cool thing that is pleasant to own and which will ALWAYS give a good result, buy the X-T10. And also, if without processing, then any other Fujik will do a dozen, except for the X-T1, so they have the same picture.

Kokin Vadim December 23, 2015, Moscow \Using experience: less than a month

Rating 5

Pros: Stylish, impeccable design, photo quality, color rendition, ergonomics, screen, viewfinder, sharp lens

Disadvantages: Weak battery, no battery handle.

Comment: It all started when I bought a fujifilm x-a2 in the summer. I bought it just like that, based on a modest budget, a camera for family and travel. At the same time, I had a Nikon D7100 with a fleet of optics as my main camera for work. For 10 years I worked only on Nikon, D50, D300 and D7100. I planned to buy a full frame, but now I’m saying goodbye to Nikon. The X-A2 made me a die-hard Fuji fan. And now I bought an X-T10 for work. This camera produces images that are an order of magnitude better than amateur (semi-professional) DSLRs. Working ISO up to 6400, nice clear picture with incredible colors. In the X-T10 everything is done very conveniently. Management is thought out to the smallest detail. The screen and viewfinder are pleasing to the eye. The video is also quite decent, although I don't need it. Autofocus is accurate and fast. For me this is the best camera at the moment, I have explored many options. The first photos can be viewed here https://fotki.yandex.ru/users/androsoff2910/album/158061/

Androsov Alexey December 16, 2015, Lukhovitsy \Using experience: less than a month

Score 4

Advantages: Zenith design, compactness compared to DSLRs, has a good viewfinder, high-quality body materials (although it feels like plastic, but it says magnesium). Decent sharpness and color rendition, flexible settings for any of 6 hot buttons. Decent noise level at ISO 6400. The battery lasts for a day of shooting. Control from your phone is quite convenient. The flash is hidden in the body.

Disadvantages: The price could be 10-30% lower, low speed of switching the display to the viewfinder, lack of HDR mode and night shooting mode, not the fastest focus (compared to Sony, Panas, Olika). Significant noise above Iso 6400 (in fact, ISO12800 and 51200 are not needed) Zooming in when viewing with a wheel is inconvenient (the X20 had buttons).
Compared to competitors, there is no touch screen and video recording is rather weak. They simplified the program switching dial, removed the scrolling wheels for pictures, and confused and complicated the ergonomics of selecting modes compared to the ideal one in the X20. The screen does not recline in selfie mode.

Comment: Switched from X20. I didn’t notice any difference in autofocus speed; it’s a hybrid. The 2007 Canon 400D DSLR focused subjectively faster. Overall I'm happy with the device. The dark lens included in the kit is sad, but there are more expensive options with the 18-55 F2-2.8.
Fits into a Lowepro Apex 110 AW bag. Spare batteries can be purchased for 300-500 rubles in China.

Score 4

Pros: Great menu with lots of customization options! Very fast AF - almost like nikon d600! Good shutter and control. Amazing manual focusing capabilities - but will they work with the Nikon adapter and lenses? Good display and viewfinder! Impressive color rendition. And also the size and weight.

Disadvantages: But there was a fly in the ointment! And there are several of them!!! I took the camera in addition to the Nikon D600 and a box of optics. For this reason, I couldn’t resist comparing them. I read in many places that x-t10 has caught up with FF in terms of matrix, etc. It turned out that no!!! And the old nikon d600 is still better in resolution and ISO (by 1.5-2 stops = although this is a great achievement)! Yesss against physical. You can’t trample on the dimensions of the matrix!!! BUT that's another thing! The real tar was ahead. I have been a fuji breeder for more than a year and all this time, like a cat from valerian, I was impressed by the old xe1. I couldn’t resist and compared them before selling xe1. Imagine my surprise when I found no difference in matrices of 1st and 2nd generation, i.e. xe1 and xt10!!! The latter only conveyed the color of a small fragment of the photo a little better! The grip of the camera is suitable for women's hands, but extra. the handle makes all the difference and adds almost no size or weight.

* good electronic viewfinder. operable in bright sun and in the dark - fast enough when shooting time-lapse to comfortably navigate only through it.
* convenient folding screen
* good speed of the device as a whole, including focusing speed
* convenient dimensions and light weight of the camera body and lenses
* convenient small on-camera flash included - helps out in hiking conditions (not a panacea, but if you urgently need to highlight hard shadows in the sun, it will do)
* good video - quite suitable for home collection

Disadvantages: * the electronic viewfinder is inconvenient to use with glasses - you can’t cling to the viewfinder as comfortably as it was on the 5DMII. There is diopter adjustment, but there is a feeling that its range is not suitable for everyone - check before purchasing or get used to it
* the electronic viewfinder (and the camera as a whole) freezes during serial shooting - the last frame freezes in it until the buffer is cleared to some level of operation (i.e., some frames are not saved from the buffer to the card). Out of habit, through the viewfinder, with your other eye closed, you won’t immediately understand that the model/children have already left the frame. It cannot be eliminated, you can improve the situation by purchasing a super-fast card or switching to JPEG - reduce the camera's freezing time.
* the sleep/wake mode is sometimes glitchy (does not turn on the camera, you risk losing a frame while the camera wakes up). It’s safer to turn off the camera yourself. The camera turns on quite quickly.
* the vaunted manual control knobs often get confused when folding and taking them out of the bag due to the lack of a rigid fixation (for me, shooting mode on the left and exposure compensation on the right often get confused). Practice the habit of looking at the knobs before shooting (after three months of use, I have not yet brought the check to automaticity).

2 years ago 0

All the advantages of Fujifilm X. I will not describe them, since they are described in detail everywhere.

2 years ago 0

A completely different approach to camera control. To achieve classic modes, you need to combine settings on the shutter mode dial and menu options. Most of the buttons are customizable, the drive dial (shooting type) is also half customizable. As a result, the two most popular modes A and M are fully deployed on two control dials (+iso on the front wheel), analog control turned out to be incredibly convenient, and there is no need to go into the menu during shooting. + The whale lens (16-50) deserves a separate review, but I'm too lazy. Good glass. Wide angle, high sharpness (ringing at f/5.6), no CA. In the dark, focusing is blurred, especially at the far end. There is also a drop in color and contrast at the far end. Ideal as a standard wide landscaper (16-23).

2 years ago 0

The quality of photos in a jeep, convenient operation, balanced size and weight, design.

2 years ago 0

Retro design + compactness + light weight + image quality = perfect camera

2 years ago 0

Zenit design, compact compared to DSLRs, has a good viewfinder, high-quality body materials (although it feels like plastic, but it says magnesium). Decent sharpness and color rendition, flexible settings for any of 6 hot buttons. Decent noise level at ISO 6400. The battery lasts for a day of shooting. Control from your phone is quite convenient. The flash is hidden in the body.

2 years ago 0

Great menu with lots of customization options! Very fast AF - almost like nikon d600! Good shutter and control. Amazing manual focusing capabilities - but will they work with the Nikon adapter and lenses? Good display and viewfinder! Impressive color rendition. And also the size and weight.

2 years ago 0

Weight, dimensions, output picture, ease of control

2 years ago 0

Stylish, impeccable design, photo quality, color rendition, ergonomics, screen, viewfinder, sharp lens

2 years ago 0

* good camera view, nice colors and good sharpness * good electronic viewfinder. operable in bright sun and in the dark - fast enough when shooting time-lapse to comfortably navigate only through it. * convenient folding screen * good operating speed of the device as a whole, including focusing speed * convenient dimensions and light weight of the camera body and lenses * convenient small on-camera flash included - helps out in hiking conditions (not a panacea, but if you urgently need to highlight hard shadows on sun - suitable) * good video - quite suitable for home collection

2 years ago 0

The main disadvantage is the complete lack of ergonomics. No, I myself deliberately wanted just such a design and from this series. I didn’t want ordinary shoes, of which there are a lot of them everywhere. I wanted something like that.
I am now at risk of spraining or straining my right arm.
Because taking a camera is inconvenient. Or you need to consciously keep in mind what exactly to grab it for, and not mechanically. Because even with small hands, when picking up the camera, all possible buttons are pressed at once. The grasping “pipka” on the right is very conventional.
Then the kit lens greatly outweighs it. Inconvenient. The camera itself is small and light, but this constant imbalance also puts strain on your hands. That is, taking pictures with your hands for several hours - your hands will definitely fall off. I understand that it's a samadura, but just don't wait there

2 years ago 0

I discovered a bug when working with a Sony SDHC UHC1 card. When viewing RAW+F footage, “Reading error” appears on some frames. After this error, when viewing from a computer, jpeg turned out to be full (10-15% gray bar), and raf was not read by CameraRAW. I haven’t tracked the prerequisites, it arises spontaneously, now on one frame, then on another. The error was noticed only on RAW+F frames.
- When using an electronic shutter, the central contact on the shoe does not close, i.e. The flash does not fire. Why and why the developers made this software limitation is unclear.
- The noise reduction is too aggressive. With iso6400 at NR +2, it turns the people in the frame into anime heroes. At 0 it’s better, but there is still software and a significant drop in sharpness. Optimal, but not ideal -2, even with this value practically

2 years ago 0

price in Russia

2 years ago 0

The price could be 10-30% lower, low speed of switching the display to the viewfinder, lack of HDR mode and night shooting mode, not the fastest focus (compared to Sony, Panas, Olika). Significant noise above Iso 6400 (in fact, ISO12800 and 51200 are not needed) Zooming in when viewing with a wheel is inconvenient (the X20 had buttons).
Compared to competitors, there is no touch screen and video recording is rather weak. They simplified the program switching dial, removed the scrolling wheels for pictures, and confused and complicated the ergonomics of selecting modes compared to the ideal one in the X20. The screen does not recline in selfie mode.

2 years ago 0

But there was a fly in the ointment! And there are several of them!!! I took the camera in addition to the Nikon D600 and a box of optics. For this reason, I couldn’t resist comparing them. I read in many places that x-t10 has caught up with FF in terms of matrix, etc. It turned out that no!!! And the old nikon d600 is still better in resolution and ISO (by 1.5-2 stops = although this is a great achievement)! Yesss against physical. You can’t trample on the dimensions of the matrix!!! BUT that's another thing! The real tar was ahead. I have been a fuji breeder for more than a year and all this time, like a cat from valerian, I was impressed by the old xe1. I couldn’t resist and compared them before selling xe1. Imagine my surprise when I found no difference in matrices of 1st and 2nd generation, i.e. xe1 and xt10!!! The latter only conveyed the color of a small fragment of the photo a little better! Grip of the camera - under women's hands

2 years ago 0

Screen rotates in one plane, screen resolution, problems with wifi connection

2 years ago 0

The battery is weak, there is no battery grip.

2 years ago 0

* the electronic viewfinder is inconvenient to use with glasses - it’s impossible to cling to the viewfinder as comfortably as it was on the 5DMII. There is diopter adjustment, but there is a feeling that its range is not suitable for everyone - check before purchasing or get used to it
* the electronic viewfinder (and the camera as a whole) freezes during serial shooting - the last frame freezes in it until the buffer is cleared to some level of operation (i.e., some frames are not saved from the buffer to the card). Out of habit, through the viewfinder, with your other eye closed, you won’t immediately understand that the model/children have already left the frame. It cannot be eliminated, you can improve the situation by purchasing a super-fast card or switching to JPEG - reduce the camera's freezing time.
* sleep/wake up mode sometimes

30.05.2015 10161 Tests and reviews 0

Fujifilm's X-series line of cameras has been expanded with a new model, the X-T10, which is a more compact and affordable version of the mirrorless X-T1, but no less interesting. The X-T10 is similar in many ways to the X-T1, but if you put them side by side and look closely, you'll notice a number of differences.

The X-T10 is compact and made of durable magnesium alloy. Controls - stylish grooved aluminum discs for adjusting shutter speed, exposure compensation and selecting shooting modes; There are also seven functional, customizable buttons. However, the camera retains the sharp and angular edges of the X-T1. As for the differences between the X-T10 and X-T1 in terms of weight and size characteristics, the new product is 8 mm thinner and 5 mm shorter than its predecessor, and also weighs 13% less (380 g compared to 490 g X-T1). It also features a less protruding grip handle on the front. Unfortunately, the X-T10 does not inherit the water and dust resistance of the X-T1, as well as a wide range of accessories, including a vertical handle. However, this is not surprising, given the focus of the product.

One of the main features of the new product is a fully automatic mode, which can be activated in one switch. It is intended for less literate photographers, who are the main target audience of this “mirrorless” camera. The dedicated ISO switch from the X-T1 to the X-T10 has been replaced by a shooting mode switch. The new product also features a new ejectable flash built into the ledge under the viewfinder, but the guide number is small and amounts to 7 meters at ISO 200. The flash is activated using a spring-loaded lever located on the left, its brightness is adjusted automatically, which saves battery power.

The new product is equipped with a tilting 3-inch LCD display with a resolution of 920,000 dots on the rear panel. It supports Preview Pic Effect, a mode that shows natural images. Using the screen makes it equally convenient to shoot whether you hold the camera near the ground or above your head. The memory card is located under the same cover as the battery. The tripod mount is located awkwardly. It is too close to the battery door. Because of this, it is impossible to change the battery or memory card while the camera is on a tripod. Hidden behind the door on the left are connectors for connecting a microphone, HDMI and USB.

The electronic viewfinder uses a 2.36 million dot OLED panel, similar to the X-T1, which features Organic EL technology for improved clarity and contrast. The brightness of the image is adjusted automatically. The built-in gyroscope measures the orientation of the image in the viewfinder depending on the position of the camera; Note that this cannot be done in cameras with an optical viewfinder. It is worth noting that the outstanding viewfinder with a magnification factor of x0.77 (the largest among digital cameras) was one of the most important elements of the X-T1; The X-T10's viewfinder is also good, but falls slightly short of the X-T1's level due to its smaller size and lower magnification ratio. The viewfinder itself has a proximity sensor in order to be activated when a person begins to use it.

The heart of the Fujifilm X-T10 is a 16.3 MP X-TransTM CMOS II sensor with a built-in phase detection autofocus system, which offers both single-point and 49-point focusing. According to the manufacturer, this solution improves the results of shooting moving objects. In addition, the camera allows you to shoot in bursts of up to 8 frames per second. The matrix uses a color filter with an irregular structure. Without the use of a low-frequency optical filter, it minimizes color distortion and moire, allowing you to increase the amount of light penetrating the matrix. Thus, the image quality of the X-T10 should be on par with the more expensive X-T1 model.

The sensor is complemented by a powerful EXR II processor. Noise reduction is performed at the processor level, resulting in sharper images with deeper blacks, even at high sensitivity levels. The Fujifilm X-T10's ISO can reach up to 51200. It also features Light Modulation Optimization (LMO) to correct diffraction and other artifacts, with shutter-to-shutter lag of up to 0.05 seconds and frame-to-frame lag of up to 0.5 seconds. . The electronic shutter operates silently.

The 77-point AF system can be used in single-point mode or in wide-angle/tracking mode with 3x3, 3x5 or 5x5 zones as chosen by the photographer. Shutter speed range - from 1/4000 to 30 s. The Fujifilm X-T10 can shoot Full HD video at up to 60fps; in this case, film simulation modes are also supported, and you can adjust exposure, aperture, shutter speed, sensitivity and focus (manually or automatically). The camera has a built-in Wi-Fi module that supports 802.11b/g/n standards, providing data transfer at speeds of up to 36 Mbps and shooting control from a smartphone or tablet connected to the Fujifilm X-T10. Without recharging the battery, the X-T10 can take 350 shots, which is the same as the X-T1.

Among the useful functions of the Fujifilm X-T10, we note Auto Macro - automatically switching the camera to macro mode while maintaining autofocus speed. Multiple exposure capabilities are supported, allowing you to combine two objects in one photo, for example, adding people to the picture, Focus Peaking (digital image division for precise manual focusing and highlighting the focus center) and interval shooting. The “feature” of the model is effects that imitate the shades of traditional Fujifilm films, and artistic filters.

Conclusions:

What do we have in the bottom line? The X-T10 model did not inherit the dust and moisture protection from the X-T1, at the same time, the new product offers 90% of the capabilities of the flagship X-T1 for 60% of its cost. It is worth noting the most powerful tracking autofocus, similar to Nikon's 3D tracking and Sony A6000 autofocus. The camera is aimed at entry-level and mid-level users.

Fujifilm X-T10 Specifications

Review of the Fuji X-T10 system camera or a mirrorless camera in the hands of an amateur, as well as: “mirrorless versus DSLR - yes or no?”, “why do I need this?”, “everything you were afraid of, but wanted” and other funny nonsense.

All funny nonsense is exclusively lynx imho,

and are based on subjective filming experience

for DSLR and mirrorless cameras.

If you answer the main question of the life of the universe and in general briefly and immediately - everything depends heavily on the requirements. In quite a number of cases, the X-T10/X-T1 is a very good replacement for an amateur DSLR (that’s it, you don’t have to read further;)).

The exceptions, it seems to me, are:

• professional reporting and its most complex types (just don’t confuse it with “reporter photography” from pop concerts, children’s sports school performances and club photos);
• art and fashion photography with high detail and shallow depth of field (if you have money for medium format and optics for it, as well as an understanding of why this is needed, then this article is absolutely not for you)
• Carrying around a “big cool DSLR” to impress customers and generally get the feeling of working with “serious equipment” (yes, the ergonomics of mirrorless cameras are peculiar, and the appearance often “does not inspire confidence in “serious people”).

Most of the performance characteristics (matrices, dimensions, weight, etc.) can be looked up on the Internet, read the praises of the “original Fuji matrix with a non-Bayer filter” (which Lightroom still works with glitches, by the way) and memorized phrases about how “now you don’t need to carry a lot , and shoot for your own pleasure.”
Let's focus on the honest and subjective.

Focusing

The most asked and controversial topic. The X-T10 has hybrid focusing - contrast focusing over the entire field of the frame, plus phase focusing in the central part of the frame; the coverage area of ​​the phase sensors is approximately comparable to that of. When selecting focus points, the hybrid points are highlighted a little brighter than the others. Focusing is fast, although it depends heavily on the lens, as always.

They say that in cramped light conditions the camera completely switches to contrast focusing, turning off the phase sensors. True or not, I don’t know.

A very convenient option is to move across the frame not only one focus point, but also the “focus zone” to several points, with adjustable size and proportions. A similar function (only without quick area adjustment) also exists in professional DSLRs (for Nikon - starting with).

Typically, on mirrorless cameras, the joystick is configured like a point-and-shoot camera - each button is assigned an action: changing ISO/white balance/modes/selecting focus points. In the X-T10, in addition to this mode, you can enable “DSLR-like mode” - that is, the four joystick buttons are immediately responsible for moving the focus point/area. And assign the necessary adjustable parameters to the user settings screen - “Q”:

Focus modes M/S/C? Eat. Switched by a lever to the right of the bayonet mount. Classic.

Focusing with tracking of objects across the frame field (what Nikon calls 3D focusing)? Eat. Although, it greatly depends on the settings and contrast of objects.

Focusing on faces? Eat. In combination with the previous point, it is very convenient to photograph children playing. And the ability to choose focusing by the eyes, and, moreover, by choice - by the left or right eye...

Is the speed and focus sufficient for amateur photography and regular reporting? Definitely yes. At least, the focusing speed is not inferior (and sometimes exceeds in terms of accuracy in dark conditions) the speed of my old s5pro, d90, d7000 and 3xxx/5xxx series. It may not be enough for professional reporting, but how many of you reading this shoot the Olympic Games?

A couple of subtleties:

1. When shooting continuously with autofocus tracking, you must select the “mechanical” shutter mode. If the “electronic” or “electronic/mechanical” modes are selected, then focusing in the series will be performed on the first frame.
2. There is such a very useful option as enlarging the frame at the focus point by pressing the rear control dial (it also works when viewing the footage, by the way). Relevant for both manual and automatic focusing modes. Alas, it only works when focusing “on one point”.

Ergonomics

I would like to immediately warn you about one important point in the ergonomics of mirrorless cameras in general and “tens” in particular. Unlike DSLRs, these are more like “left-handed cameras”.
That is, it’s easy to carry the camera “ on the fingertips of the right hand" You are unlikely to succeed - your fingers will cramp, especially with a massive lens. The only exceptions are configurations with “Quito”, and 18 and 27 mm “pancakes”. And this is the very feeling that the use of professional DSLRs gives: “the camera is like an extension of the hand!” – will also be absent.

Despite some “skew” of the X-T series models “for DSLRs” - all these thumb rests, a protrusion on the pediment and other tricks, the principle of wearing system cameras is noticeably different from the central control camera. The first time you will have to relearn.

An additional battle block/handle can partially correct the situation (at the same time making the camera more massive), bringing the ergonomics closer to “mirror” ones, but alas, even the Chinese do not provide it for the X-T10.
If only you do it yourself. ;)
From my current point of view, a Chinese leather half-case is quite enough. People with income and desire can buy an original case and an additional grip from Fuji. Today it is approximately 4,500 rubles for each item.

For those who have spent a lot of time shooting with film DSLRs and rangefinders (or have had experience working with puppies ;)), you will only have to remember your old skills.

So, the X-T10 is held in the left hand. Just like the old zenith (or puppy): the thumb and forefinger form a “fork” to grasp and hold the lens, and the palm and other fingers hold the camera from below. It is convenient, practical, leaves your right hand free, and protects the camera.
Yes, if you want to shoot with the camera extended and holding it only in your right hand, this trick is quite possible. True, with many lenses this will be quite difficult. Carrying it in your left hand is much more convenient.

The included neck strap, like most cameras, is rigid. But high quality. True quality. And without the huge inscription “HEY GUYS – THERE’S A DUDE WITH A VERY EXPENSIVE CAMERA!” So you can spend a little time to stretch it and get it into good condition.

In general, Fuji and Olympus mirrorless cameras, with their ergonomics, dictate a slightly different shooting style than the CZK. But we will consider the article “the influence of the type of camera on the psychological aspects of artistic creativity” another time.

All buttons (with the exception of the video recording button) are convenient and accessible, easy to find blindly, pressed with good response, but without excessive tightness.

In addition to rotation, the control wheels (both front and rear) can be pressed like buttons. On the front you can select an action, on the back, when pressed, it increases the focus area to fill the entire screen.

Turning on the camera is a rotary lever around the shutter button, just like in Nikon.

Exposure pair and mode control for all Fuji mirrorless cameras is implemented as in film cameras: the aperture is set on the lens, and exposure compensation is set on the camera body. True, for several inexpensive lenses that do not have an aperture ring, it is set using control wheels, as in Nikon.
And the diaphragm has the “A” position in its extreme positions - auto. By setting them to position “A” in different combinations, we get modes M, A, S and P. Everything is simple and convenient.

In case you need to give the camera to someone unfamiliar with the intricacies of shooting, there is an “auto” lever under the shutter speed dial, which switches the camera to “green” mode with autofocus tracking.

By the way, the mode is quite hysterical - for some reason it has a constant, non-switchable, tracking autofocus, so the lens constantly buzzes and fidgets. As it turns out, this unnerves unprepared people, as if they were given a small, nimble animal in their hands.

On the left, on the top panel, there is a dial for selecting drive modes (single frame, fast and slow series), two types of bracketing (by ISO, types of film, etc. Configured in the menu), two types of filters (more on them below), as well as panoramic shooting and . The latter is very conveniently implemented - after shooting the first frame, it is superimposed on the screen as a translucent background, so that you can see the alignment of the images.

Viewfinder and screen

The screen is typical for the current time, a little more than three inches, with good color reproduction and angles. I recommend sticking a matte protective film or glass - it will be much more convenient to work under bright sun. It reclines using the protrusions on the left (they cling well with the nail of the index finger), down 45 degrees and up 90 degrees.
Viewfinder... I have seen different viewfinders, both in old Fuji models, and in the little Sony-Nex and in the new Olympus. I'll be honest - this one is the best! Both in color and detail. Subjectively, it’s only slightly smaller than the viewfinder of a full-frame DSLR, but larger than on a cropped camera, especially the “junior” one.

The viewfinder and screen can be switched using the proximity sensor and have 4 modes:

• Only the screen works (all the time)
• Only the viewfinder works (constantly)
• The screen works, but when brought to the eye (about 5-7 cm), it switches to the viewfinder
• Only the viewfinder works, but it only turns on when you bring it to your eye.

There is a serious lack of a “sleep” button, as for example it is implemented in modern cell phones - clicking the switch every time is tiring.

Also, I would really like the mode “in the viewfinder there is an image, on the screen there are only settings parameters and a quick user menu.”

As befits mirrorless cameras that are not bound by technical parameters, a lot of additional information can be displayed both on the screen and in the viewfinder, from ISO/shutter speed/aperture to the virtual horizon and three types of manual focusing assistance.
The main advantage (and screen) of the Fuji was the ability to display space with already selected settings.

For example, if you are shooting in manual mode and have turned the shutter speed and aperture too high, the camera will show you an almost black screen. Or heavily overexposed, depending on the parameters.

And using the exposure compensation wheel (located on the top of the camera, on the right), you can easily select the lighting of the frame, for example, when shooting an evening city - from light twilight to deep night with lights.

Menu

Everything is simple, convenient, concise, with a bunch of possible fine-tuning settings “to suit you.”
The menu logic is closest to Nikon’s - a vertical column of squares a1-a5/s1-s3 on the left and pop-up menus from it. In the Russian version, you sometimes have to look in the instructions to see what certain abbreviations mean. But in general, everything is clear.

Lenses

The first and most important thing about system lenses from Fuji is that almost all of them are top lenses. Yes, that’s right, there are practically no “cheap and compromise” glasses in Fujiks, with the exception of the 27 mm prime and several “whales” of standard focal lengths (16-50 and 55-200). And even in this case, the simplest 16-55/3.5-5.6 produces a very, very good picture.
Most of the primes have f/1.4, some – f/2, zooms – from f/2.8. The construction is almost always all-metal, without any rubber bands or plastic.
About any of the Fuji lenses, we can say: “You shake it in your hands, you wave it – it’s a thing!”
The advantage of this approach is the fact that you really want to shoot with any of the lenses without bothering. The downside is the price. Who wants to be horrified by modern prices - welcome to the Yandex market.

A special feature of Fuji lenses are electronic control rings - the transmission of zoom, aperture and focusing parameters is not mechanical, but electronic. On the one hand, this allows for smooth adjustment when shooting video, as well as complete dust and moisture protection of the lens. On the other hand, you will also have to get used to this; the response of the lenses is not as unambiguous as with mechanical control.

But there is a fairly large travel of the focusing ring, about two turns from MDF to infinity, which gives great possibilities when shooting.

I had the opportunity to shoot with 4 Fujifilm system lenses:

Batteries

Yes, they don’t last long – from 300 to 600 frames (someone mentioned 1000), depending on the mode of use, and you need to monitor/turn off the camera so that it doesn’t eat too much (although there is a sleep timer). Yes, it is better to always have a spare one with you. Yes, it’s better to take the original ones, and not the Chinese ones (which are at least a third less capacious, and can generally malfunction or burn out at any moment. Yes, it’s not cheap - the original now costs about 1.6-2.5 thousand (although you can manage to take it in within a thousand with all sorts of discounts).
Battery charging time is approximately an hour and a half in the situation “oh we should charge it!” and about two are able “Okay, that’s it, we’ve arrived”.

About color and light

Canonists, judging by the reviews on the forum, do not note any loss in dynamic range when switching to Fujik. In flowers - they are very happy.
Nikonists, especially those with multi-pixel cameras (D610/D7100), may find the dynamic range in jeeps too small in highly contrasting scenes. But the Ravs are almost as “stretchy” as Nikon’s, and the colors and skin tone are undoubtedly better.

Example - a jipeg without processing, a jipeg with shadows stretched to +100 in lightroom, and a jipeg with shadows stretched to +100 in lightroom:

Personally, after the “sweep”, with its huge DD in jeeps, I had to remember about the levels and master Capture One, but the colors did not disappoint.

Working with flashes

With Fuji flashes, everything is a little complicated and a little simple.

It’s difficult - because the system is new, and the cat has cried for third-party models of TTL flashes for them, now there are only Meike-320 - a small two-battery, but quite successful model and Nissin-40i - a classic model with a rotating head, although the dimensions are slightly smaller than usual .

It’s simple - because there are only three “native” flashes, you won’t get confused:

EF-X20 with case:

Remote flash control for X-T10:

1. for EF-X20 - by “ignition” from the built-in flash, in manual mode. At the same time, the flash at the bottom has a switch for TTL mode, manual tracking mode, and “P” tracking mode, which apparently allows the flash not to respond to “red-eye pre-flashes”. Well, studio/manual flashes naturally get set on fire too.
2. Via sync cable, through the hot shoe. They say that cables from the Canon system are suitable, but the arrangement of the contacts on the shoe is somewhat different from Canon's. Nikon's TTL cable doesn't fit exactly. Perhaps the so-called A “universal TTL cable” will be the best solution in this situation.
3. Radio synchronizers via hot shoe. Any - for manual modes, or, possibly, E-TTL for the Canon system (information not verified).

Fuji EF-X20 and Chinese studio flash:

A little trick to help you not worry about the flash being unmovable:

With head-on flash:

And with a reflector made from a piece of foil:

As a means of holding foil paper, in increasing order of effectiveness: fingers, an elastic band for money, a magnetic strip (purchased at an advanced printer store or from magnet manufacturers)

For built-in flash The X-T10 has only 4 operating modes in the menu:

• “Forced” – simple TTL mode. Before use, the flash must be raised using the lever on the left of the top panel.
• Slow synchronization.
• Synchronization via 2nd curtain – read “rear curtain”
• Commander. . Alas, the Fuja has nothing like Nikon’s CLS; in this mode, the flash operates with minimal power, sufficient only for ignition.
• Flash disabled. Why this item is needed, as well as the first one, I’m at a loss (after all, the flash fires only if it’s raised), most likely the menu is maximally unified with other camera models, and these items are intended for cameras with non-lifting flashes - to disable/enable them this way. But, when you select this menu item, the raised flash does not fire.

Additional settings for the built-in flash:

• Flash exposure compensation +2 0 -2, in 1/3 increments.
• Enabling or disabling the “remove red eyes” mode. Moreover, it is implemented not with pre-flashes, as usual, but at the software level - the automation detects the face and “blackens the pupils”.
• There is no manual mode.

Since the viewfinder (and screen) shows the image in accordance with the selected exposure pair and exposure compensation, allowing you to select shooting parameters in real time, then, for working with flashes and in the studio, in the “screen” menu there is a “manual viewing mode - on/off” " When you turn it off, the screen starts working as usual. This function can be assigned to the “Fn” function keys, but cannot be added to the “Q” user menu.

WiFi

The X-T10's wireless connectivity has four functions:

1. Working with tablets and smartphones. Android and iOS.
2. Autosave to computer.
3. Imprinting geotags on photos from a GPS smartphone.
4. Wireless wearable printer “Intax”.

Working with tablets and smartphones.

Everything here is very simple and fast. There is an application in the application database (Google Play and Apple Story). Download, install, configure, and now, every time you turn on Wi-Fi in your smartphone and Fujik, and confirm the connection in the camera, you get 4 functions:

• Copying/receiving (not moving!) selected photos to a smartphone (and the camera has a function “transfer compressed file”) In this mode, you need to choose which photos to transfer and which not – you need to do so on the camera screen.
• View camera memory. The same as the previous point, only in this case all copying and selection control occurs from the smartphone screen. Essentially, this is a choice of “what to put back in your pocket - a camera or a smartphone?”
• Shooting control - aiming, shutter release, changing shooting parameters - ISO, flash mode, timer, photo or video shooting, correction, etc.
• Geotagging is the transfer of coordinates of the current location to the camera when shooting.

The connection is almost instantaneous. When working with the camera, working with the Internet via Wi-Fi on the smartphone is automatically blocked.
One of the disadvantages is that every time after executing a menu item, when returning to selecting items, you have to reconnect.
This function can be assigned to one of the “Fn” function buttons

Autosave on PC

A special autosave program is downloaded from the Fuji website (versions for Win and iOS), and, during installation, is assigned to autoload, in standby mode. In this case, you need to set up a network connection on the camera (name/password or several other methods) - through a home wifi router or access point. After this, the network settings are saved in the camera's memory. Up to six wifi networks can be stored.
To autosave, you need to go to photo viewing mode and select “autosave on PC” there. It takes about 20-30 seconds to connect and authorize in the autosave program, and another half a minute to check and copy 10-20 jpg files.
Unfortunately, you cannot assign autosave either to function keys or to the user menu.

Imprinting geotags on photos from a GPS smartphone

Everything is simple here - you turn on the GPS on your smartphone, launch the same connection program, and it transfers tags for recording to any freshly captured frame. At the same time, the “terrain marks received” icon is displayed on the screen. For some reason, it is indicated that “continuous operation time is 1 hour.”

Instax SHARE SP-1 Wireless Wearable Printer

The photo was honestly stolen from the manufacturer’s official website.

This is a very fun idea from Fujifilm, based on their modern Polaroid Instax cameras. It is a printed block from a similar camera with a projector screen inside, a wi-fi module and powered by a pair of batteries.
Dimensions: 101.6 mm x 42 mm x 122.5 mm, weight: 253 g (without battery and film), hangs with a belt clip.
The price is about 8-9 thousand rubles as of January 2015.
The pictures are 46*62 mm in size, plus a white frame like a Polaroid.
It is powered by cassettes from Fujifilm “a la Polaroid”, for 10 pictures (“mini” type), costing 4-5 hundred rubles each.
Whoever has read this far is already well done!
Basically, this fun thing is needed for all sorts of parties, and for paid photo sessions, when in half a minute, during the shooting process, you can take several “purse photos” - a pleasant surprise for the customer. Well, or you can make a conceptual exhibition.

Other

Film profiles and work emulation

The camera has half a dozen preset color profiles, mostly simulating certain types of film, including the legendary Kodak Chrome and classic sepia. Moreover, it shows them immediately in the viewfinder when shooting. And also - 7 options for user settings (in which film profiles are only one of the changeable parameters). Any of these can be switched through the quick menu or assigned function keys, the combination “pressed a button, turned the wheel/clicked the joystick.” Fun options that can be assigned to the left “tower” are a black and white image with only one color allowed - red, yellow, blue, green and orange.

Memory cards

One of the differences between x-t10 and x-t1 is. In the X-T10 it is limited to about 8-10 frames, and after that the camera thinks about recording to a flash drive. On many forums it is recommended (and I agree) to spend money on a high-speed card, with a speed of no less than 80-95 Mbit/sec. The recording lag drops significantly - at slow serial speeds the card does not overflow at all, at fast speeds it begins to slow down after the tenth or twelfth frame.
No, some inexpensive card, such as Transcend class 10, is not fast and is quite slow. The recording speed should be indicated on the card (or in the description). Some SanDisk Extreme Pro SDHC 16 GB (or better yet 32) is good enough.

The most “continuous-rapid-firing” option is the “jpeg-normal” option with a minimum file size and all enhancements disabled - about 20 frames (2.5 sec) of continuous shooting without reducing speed.

True, all of the above applies to the jpg format, in raw - a camera with a fast card reduces the shooting speed somewhere after the tenth frame in a slow series and after the sixth or seventh in a fast series (but does not stop shooting!).

Third party lenses

Almost any type can be installed through the appropriate adapters. The most common adapters are for M42, M39, Nikon and Canon. Alas, with autofocus glasses, the automatic aperture (let alone the focus or zoom drive) will not work. Of particular interest is the possibility of using interesting rangefinder glasses.

Fujifilm X-T10 and Jupiter-37MS (via Fuji-M42 adapter)

Lens caps

They are uncomfortable and slip out of your fingers. Classic “a la Nikon” are much more practical. But it’s easier to install a good one and forget about the lids.

Wishes to Fujifilm developers:

1. menu item “manual viewing – on/off”. – very necessary in the “user menu Q”.
2. The “connect to tablet” and “autosave” functions need to be added to the “Q custom screen”
3. I really need a “sleep” button under duress, or at least a setting in the sleep timing menu not only for 2 and 5 minutes - they are too long.
4. Also, I would really like the mode “in the viewfinder - an image, on the screen - only settings, and a quick user menu.” – as this has already been implemented with the image viewing mode. Otherwise, when you set the “viewfinder only” mode, you can’t adjust shooting parameters on the screen, and shoot only through the viewfinder, like on DSLRs.
5. On the button/command “turn on wi-fi” you need to make a choice - connect to a tablet or a computer / other networks (and not split it into two commands in two different menus), otherwise you have to go to the menu to enable autosave in order to lose a couple -three photos. Well, it takes quite a long time to connect, unfortunately. Maybe we could release a USB-wifi device that you can plug into your computer and it will immediately connect the camera, with the same program as smartphones?

Price and logic

Alas, the option “I’ll go to a mirrorless camera, everything is cheaper and better there” is a myth.
If you completely switch to a mirrorless system, with native lenses, automation and convenience, you will have to spend money.

Let me make a reservation right away - yes, there are inexpensive solutions for a narrow range of tasks.

For example, for “purely manual work with high-quality color” there is a very suitable and relatively inexpensive fuji X-m1 on the secondary market. For 12-17 thousand, if you buy used, you get a tiny pocket crop-1.5, with a proprietary matrix, a set of adapters for the main systems (M42, M39, Leica, Nikon), a manual focusing system, Wi-Fi and a folding screen . If you add the original “whale” 16-50/3.5-5.6 for 10,000 rubles, you have a device for creative, studio photography and family holidays.

For street photography, the pocket-sized and inexpensive Sony nex 5, 6, 7 versions, or A5100 are quite suitable. With pancake or “whale”. Or Olympus pen-series (starting with five).

Actually, a mirrorless inexpensive (in the price of a junior DSLR) system for “take pictures of the family and put the camera back in your pocket”, These are non-top small Olympus/Sony/Fuji/Panasonic models - without a viewfinder, with a rotating screen and a kit/pancake included (in the case of the Olympus, a pancake whale).

But! If you assemble a universal system with an optimal set of functions, good focusing and automatic lenses, forget about savings relative to DSLRs.

Let me give you a specific example.
To switch to Fuji I had to sell:

• (mileage 83 thousand, batblock 3 batteries);
• – 16,000 rubles;
• Battery WP-126, original from Fuja, with a 2-year warranty, price 1630 in the store, minus ~300 points with the “points” system from Sberbank, and minus 300 rubles for a review of the purchase in the camera store. total - 1000 rubles in fact.
• Flash (I would like a pair) EF-X20 (9000 according to the price tag in a connected one) + 2 sets of eneloop AAA batteries (1000 rubles / set) + SanDisk Extreme Pro SDHC card 16 GB (1600 rubles). This whole set costs 12,600 rubles, but minus gift points from Fuji for a winter promotion, minus Svyaznoy points from buying a camera, minus points for paying by card - we get something like 8,000 rubles.
• From ebay adapters for M42, M39, Nikon ~ 1400 rub.
• – 1000 rubles in a second-hand shop.

Total ~ approximately the same 71-72 thousand rubles.

I wouldn't say it's cheap, right? And this despite the fact that Fuji recently raised prices for carcasses and optics.
However, it can be noted that these are new prices for new, and quite high-quality products for their prices.

Why exactly x-t10, and not xt-1, x-e2, or the new Olympus or Sony?

With Sony, it's simple - I don't like them. Neither the appearance, nor the ergonomics, nor the picture.
With the Olympus it’s more complicated, the new OMD E10 mark 2 and OMD E5 mark 2 are the most convenient small cameras I’ve ever held in my hands. It’s real - they fit right into your hand and everything is comfortable everywhere and doesn’t pinch anywhere. And there is a huge selection of lenses. And the viewfinder is good (although I liked the Fujik one much better). And branded Olympus beautiful colors. Stabilizer in the matrix. Fastest autofocus. Everything, literally everything is good!
Except for one “but”. Because of the crop-2, the Olympus has the most boring picture, flat like a children's folding book-with-a-lock. There are absolutely no volumes. Even with good light and shade. Even on top fixes. Alas. I didn't like it at all.
fuji X-E2 – there is no rotating screen and I don’t like the ergonomics a bit.

Fuji X-M1 is one of the most successful Fuji mirrorless cameras, relatively inexpensive, but alas, there is no viewfinder and hybrid autofocus, although as a second, pocket camera it is quite good. One of my friends in St. Petersburg specifically took it to work with manual lenses in the studio.

Fuji X-T1 with the release of X-Pro 2 lost its top status, losing to the new model in all respects, except perhaps for the price (not much) and the presence of a rotating screen. At the same time, the X-T10 beats the former flagship with smaller dimensions and weight, having the same matrix and focusing system, and also at a much lower price (about 20 thousand rubles), losing only in the lack of weather protection, a little in the buffer and the size of the viewfinder, and losing a few beautiful, but not critically necessary “twists” on the body.

Why mirrorless cameras?

That is why:

By the way. A very big plus of such a system is that people, even strangers, are not afraid of you at all, they do not shy away as if “from a big black camera.” This allows you to quite calmly shoot everyday scenes and other reportage interesting things.
Well, one more thing. They really want to film.