How to assemble a computer. Self-assembly of a computer

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Article001 - How to assemble a system unit from components yourself (v.1.1)

In this article, it will be written about how a person who is relatively poorly versed in computers can assemble a system unit (SB) from components himself.

The reason for writing this article is that there is a type of computer users who, on the whole, are good at understanding (or are beginning to understand) computers, but they themselves have never assembled a computer and have a desire, but do not have a detailed guide on how to do it exactly (i.e. "theorists "and" beginners ").

The author does not claim the uniqueness and "correctness" of the method of its assembly, since there can be many assembly options, depending on various conditions. An experienced assembler can build a computer in a slightly different way. This can be compared in different versions of solving a mathematical problem, where the result is generally the same.

Typically, a standard computer consists of:

Monitor;

Keyboards and mice;

From the title it is clear that the methodology for assembling the "system unit" will be explained. Moreover, the case is of the ATX form factor.

Any microATX, flexATX, mini-ITX, BTX are not considered.

The system unit as standard consists of nine components. Here they are:

5.processor cooler

6.hard drive (aka hard)

7.dvd drive (or any kind of optical disc drive - hereinafter, for simplicity we will assume that this is a DVD drive)

8.power supply unit (aka PSU)

So let's get started. The SB assembly consists of three parts. Let's consider each in detail. I will not describe absolutely everything - for this there are instruction books for the motherboard and for the case. I will dwell on important details.

I. Corps preparation.

First of all, we take the case.

1. [Posts (pegs)]

The package includes a plastic bag, which usually contains the following things:

1.1. There are two types of fixing bolts (frequent thread and rare thread.

In the photo below, you can clearly see that on the left there are bolts with a rare thread, and on the right - with a frequent thread.

1.2. Hexagon bolts with a screw hole in the back (the so-called "pins" - I, for simplicity, will further call them "posts").

Their grooves are also of two types - with frequent and rare carvings. This is clearly visible from below.

1.3. It is also worth checking the following in advance - do the internal grooves of the post fit a bolt with a rare or frequent thread?

Bolts with a wide (large) head are good for fixing the motherboard - they are easy to tighten and they provide a better and reliable clamp. Therefore, all the pictures have such bolts.

1.4. PC-speaker (aka "buzzer").

[I'll add a photo later]

In top-end cases, the package bundle can be richer - additional ties are attached, proprietary case mounts-holders for hard drives and drives, 5.25 "to 3.5" / 2.5 "adapters, stickers with the name of the manufacturer, additional USB3 ports. 0 and e-SATA and more ...

This bag is needed - columns will be needed.

1.5. We take the motherboard and apply it to the case pallet in the place where it is attached (i.e. the motherboard).

We memorize the places (holes) where the posts need to be fixed by the holes in the motherboard, then we remove the motherboard so that it does not interfere. Immediately mark the required holes with a marker.

1.6. Then tighten the columns in the pallet in the marked places with pliers or another suitable tool.

Sometimes it happens that the posts were already preinstalled - in this case, if necessary, they should be moved to the desired hole and / or tightened tightly to the end.

There should be no extra columns on the pallet - they will interfere with the installation of the motherboard and may damage it. Usually there are 9 holes (and therefore columns) in the ATX form-factor board.

2. [Plug]

2.1. The motherboard package includes a plug for the motherboard connectors.

It looks like this.

2.2. There is a corresponding place on the back of the housing for the plug.

2.3. We take the plug and fix it from the inside of the case by applying strong pressure, very strong :)

3. [Hardy + DVD drive]

After that, the hard or hards are fixed in the case. In conventional cases, the hard disk is fixed by four bolts (two on each side), which are screwed into the holes provided for this:

The hards are secured with bolts with a rare thread.

In top-end (and not-so-top) cases, the manufacturer has the right to change the way the hard drives are attached, guided by the following goals:

Simplification (rarely - complication - for good reasons) of the fixation method to save time and nerves;

Reducing vibration and noise from hard drives;

Using the hands themselves, without the participation of various kinds of tools - pliers, screwdrivers ...

In my case, these are special screws with a rubber washer in the middle - they are screwed in by hand.

And we fix the DVD drive with four bolts with a rare thread. As a rule - in the topmost 5.25 "slot of the case.

The power supply in modern power supplies can be located both above and below. Although there is a tendency towards the "bottom" location of the PSU. It is also fixed with four sparse threaded bolts.

Moreover, if the power supply unit is at the top, there is only one fixation option for it - with a grid down. In this position, it takes in hot air from below and passes it through its "insides" outside the body.

If the power supply unit is at the bottom, it can be fixed with a grating down or up. Usually, the case manufacturer chooses only one of these two options for fixing the power supply unit - which one can be determined by the corresponding bolt holes.

But such options are not uncommon when the assembler himself is given a choice - and he can fix it at will, since there are twice as many "holes" in this case - "fix it as you want."

The answer is simple - because the power supply unit has a bunch of loops that often interfere with "digging" in the system unit. This saves us time, although ... it's not that important.

The two pictures below show that with two different positions of the power supply unit, the holes are also in different places.

Bottom fan:

Fan on top:

II. Preparing the motherboard.

1. [Processor]

We take the motherboard in our hands and put it on the table, first placing a layer of soft material under it - a towel, a toasted layer of newspaper or paper - to protect the legs on the back of the board.

Then we open the socket of the socket and carefully remove the dark plug intended to protect the "legs". Before doing this, carefully read the instructions for installing the chip on the motherboard several times. Then you should calmly and slowly, clearly "lay" the percent on the socket and close the socket. The percent fits in the only correct way, since there is a "key" on the side and there is no other way to put it.

But what am I signing here? In the manual of the motherboard everything is very clear "chewed" how to do it, and even with pictures.

2. [RAM]

So, the processor is in place. Then comes the installation of the RAM strips. To do this, in the slot for the slats, we open the latches on the side, which are two pieces per bar. Then we take the bar and gently press it into the "socket". As soon as the bar is lowered into place, the latches on the side will go down and "grab" the bar from both sides. We carry out this operation for all planks. This operation is also described in more detail in the manual.

They also told me that nowadays it is fashionable to make Dimok mounts on one side - whether it is convenient or not - I don't know.

The cooler is used to cool the processor during operation. The cooler is "docked" in the surface of the processor not by any means, but by means of a "thermal interface" - thermal paste, which filling in the unevenness of the "docking" of two metal surfaces provides better heat transfer.

In general, the process of fixing a cooler to a processor with a motherboard deserves a separate article, since this is a rather difficult task (and an extensive / controversial topic) for a beginner, because several important factors must be taken into account (in relation to a top-end cooler):

CPU cooler, the method of mounting it, mounting fans, backplate and others;

Thermal paste itself, its density / viscosity, thermal conductivity (in relation to the evenness of the cooler sole);

The amount of thermal paste applied;

The method of applying thermal paste to both surfaces;

The method of fixing the cooler to the motherboard.

Although, it seems that everything is simple - he took it with his finger and smeared it. For me personally, not everything is so ordinary.

We put the cooler after the memory bars because in some cases the already installed cooler interferes with the subsequent installation of the memory bars.

III. Final assembly.

1. We bring the case prepared in the first part (with hards, drive and power supply unit) to a horizontal position.

The motherboard prepared in the second part (with a cooler and RAM) is carefully placed in the right place and fixed with bolts.

2. [Wires, cables, loops]

Before connecting the video card, you should connect the power cables, interface cables, case fan wires, USB cables and wires, audio, power, reset and led "s. All this is again described in detail in the motherboard manual.

2.1. We connect the 24-pin power wire of the motherboard and then the 4-pin (or 8-pin) power wire of the processor to the motherboard.

2.2. We connect the thin power, reset, power led and hdd led wiring (according to the drawings in the manual), as well as the USB2.0 and USB3.0 pads (if any) and the audio wires of the connectors on the front of the case;

2.3. Then comes the line of SATA interface cables - from the motherboard to the corresponding connector on the hard drives.

Do not forget about the case fan wires (we also connect them to the corresponding connectors on the motherboard according to the manual).

2.4. And the last are the power cables for SATA hard drives - from the power supply unit to the corresponding connector on the hard drives.

3. [Video card]

We connect the video card last. We take it in our hands, carefully bringing it closer to the PCI-E connector on the motherboard, and press it until it enters to the end. And on the left we fix it with two bolts for a secure fix.

Do not forget to connect additional power cables from the power supply unit to the video card. Usually they are or. "pin" is the number of pins on the power connector.

And finally, when finished, we get the following picture:

Used iron:

Intel Core i5 2500K processor, 4600 MHz, 1.35 V

Cooler ThermalRight Archon, TR TY-150 x 1000 rpm, TR TY-140 x 1300 rpm

Thermal interface Arctic Cooling MX-2

ASRock P67 Extreme6 P67 motherboard (bios P1.60)

DDR3 memory, 2 x 4 Gb, 1333 @ 2133 MHz, HMT351U6CFR8C-H9, 10-11-10-30-2T, 1.59 V

Hard 500 Gb, WD5000AAKS (SATA2, 7200 rpm, 16 Mb)

1.5 Tb, WD15EARS x 3

2 Tb, WD20EARS x 2

640 Gb, WD6400AADS х 1

160 Gb, Seagate ST3160815AS (OS redundant / off)

1.5 Tb, Seagate ST31500541AS

2 Tb, Seagate ST2000DL003

2 Tb, Samsung HD204UI

Lian Li PC-A70FB case, and 4 pieces of native built-in fans.

Reobas Zalman ZM-MFC1 Plus

PSU AeroCool Strike-X 1100 (1100 W, 80+ Gold)

Video Inno 3D Geforce GTX570 (732/1464/3800, 1,000 V) - reference CO replaced by Zalman VF3000F

Monitor 24 "Acer P246H 1920 * 1080

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Imagine that you cannot live a day without computer games, but you don’t understand computer hardware. Roofing felts you have no time to delve into this, or just laziness, although most likely the latter, or you will lie by saying the first. For users in this, we will help you choose modern spare parts at an affordable price, for March 2014. Thanks to this article, you can assemble a gaming computer and not overpay.

Armed with the Internet and the necessary knowledge, we are moving forward in search of not expensive, but most importantly high-quality components.

Shopping plan

First of all, we need to assemble the system unit, why should we assemble it? The fact is that in any ready-made computer you will always come across 2-3 spare parts that can negate performance or break down in quality ahead of time. Don't be alarmed, no one is forcing you build a computer yourself... Usually, when you buy computer parts, you can use the services of our ITcom service center in Kharkov at.

Let's start with the selection of components for the system unit. To begin with, I'll list it:

  • CPU
  • Motherboard
  • RAM
  • Video card
  • System unit case
  • Power Supply
  • DVD drive
  • HDD
  • Cooling system for the processor (cooler)

Let's start choosing components for a gaming PC

System unit

The appearance does not affect the performance of a gaming computer, so we take a case without bells and whistles, an entry level. The case should be of medium size so that everything fits in and does not take up extra space, that is, with the ATX marking. For example, housing AeroCool V3X Black Edition Black... As a rule, the case is sold with a power supply, but not our method, because the power in standard blocks does not suit us, therefore he chooses without power.

Power Supply

We will not chase branded brands, but choose a good one based on reviews power supply unit with a capacity of 600 watts, enough for a gaming computer. After looking at and reading the reviews, choose FSP Group ATX-600PNR 600W the average cost of which is about 700 UAH. Quite a decent power supply unit, the more a 12 cm fan in its case will dissipate heat well.

CPU processor

For stable operation and less heat dissipation, we choose Intel processors. Many AMD fans will prove that AMD is cheaper and more powerful, but I'd rather pay a little extra, but be sure that the gaming computer does not overheat and will work stably for more than one year. Choosing a processor Intel Core i5-4670 Haswell (3400MHz, LGA1150, L3 6144Kb) the average price is about 2600 UAH. Expensive, but for games - this is the same extreme price line, because further it is only more expensive. Intel i5-4670 - the processor is quite cold, so there will be no overheating, however, just in case, we will equip it with a good fan to prevent overheating. Core i7 processors are still an unjustified luxury, without which games will fly well anyway. Now, starting from the processor model, you can choose a suitable motherboard.

Motherboard

Considering that we have a processor with an LGA 1150 socket, you can choose a motherboard, I will not pretend to be honest, I confess to you that almost since childhood I have been fans of high-quality hardware and hardware, so the choice fell on Asus products (I hope with me many will agree) And now more specifically. Nothing more, 4 slots for RAM (for expansion) 6 USB slots on the rear panel (4 of them are USB 3.0) the ability to connect two video cards (if you suddenly want something more). For overclockers (lovers of overclocking hardware) there is also where to roam. The name is "Barsik" ASUS Z87M-PLUS and this joy costs an average of 1330 UAH.

RAM.

Everything is simple here, choose a normal brand, choose a frequency of 1600 and 8GB of memory (preferably two 4GB dies for the RAM to work in parallel mode). There is no more sense, there is no sense less, so to speak, the golden mean. Classic uncle Kingston never I didn’t let me down, so to the fanfare of a lifetime warranty and additional heatsinks, I chose the Kingston KHX1600C9D3K2 / 8G model (the bundle includes two 4 GB boards).

Advice: when installing Windows, be sure to select a 64-bit operating system, since the system simply will not see it in 32 Bit 8 GB.

Video card

One of the most subtle and scrupulous choices, since we are collecting not an office calculator, but a decent gaming computer. I must say right away that I trust my hardware only to GeForce products, so AMD Radeon again remains on the sidelines. Yes, I understand that AMD is cheaper and all that, but if you build a computer on this architecture, then you will not need a heater in winter, but in turn you will need an air conditioner in summer. So, what do we have in the sweet market? We always select the cards with Ti, which means increased power. I will not torment you, but I will present you with a cheap but angry bear cub called Palit GeForce GTX 750 Ti 1202Mhz PCI-E 3.0 2048Mb 6008Mhz 128 bit DVI Mini-HDMI HDCP so far this is a novelty on the market of budget gaming video cards, but judging by the tests, the game will pull on Hurrah. The average cost is 1800 rubles.

DVD drive

Everything is very difficult here, we close our eyes and poke at any black CD (since we chose the black case). The lottery fell on the ASUS DRW-24F1ST Black optical drive worth 180 UAH.

HDD.

We choose Western Digital with a SATA 6 Gb / s connection interface with a volume of 1000 GB and a buffer memory size of 64 MB. All other parameters are standard. The Western Digital WD10EZEX model costs UAH 700. Why didn't I choose Seagate? Because in all my work in the engineering environment, only the hard drives of this company gave me the most trouble and gray hair for ... you get the idea.

CPU cooling system (cooler)

Everything is simple here, for good and quiet cooling we take a cooler with a 12 cm fan, it will quietly and sweepingly cool your processor, which is exactly what we need. This little Zalman CNPS10X Optima looks impressive and will work in the same way. The cost is only 360 UAH.

Let's sum up

  • System unit AeroCool V3X Black Edition Black - 500 UAH.
  • FSP Group ATX-600PNR 600W power supply - UAH 630
  • Intel Core i5-4670 Haswell (3400MHz, LGA1150, L3 6144Kb) processor - 2600 UAH
  • Motherboard ASUS Z87M-PLUS - 1330 UAH
  • RAM Kingston KHX1600C9D3K2 / 8G - 1200 UAH
  • Palit GeForce GTX 750 Ti 1202Mhz PCI-E 3.0 2048Mb 6008Mhz 128 bit DVI Mini-HDMI HDCP video card - 1800 UAH
  • DVD drive ASUS DRW-24F1ST Black - 180 UAH
  • Western Digital WD10EZEX hard drive - 700 UAH
  • Cooling system for the processor (cooler) Zalman CNPS10X Optima - 360 UAH

Total: 9300 UAH

This is the minimum cost of a system unit for a gaming computer, the hardware of which will be enough for you to play games for at least 2-3 years. Let's continue the selection. What else is left for us?

  • Monitor
  • Keyboard
  • Mouse
  • Mouse pad
  • Validol tablets (this is for those who were strained by the price of the system unit)

Monitor

For a comfortable game and a good picture, we choose Philips monitors, model 226V4LAB, price 1400 UAH. Good color rendering, response time, resolution and, of course, firm. Only before the game will you need to adjust the color, Philips has a factory default jamb, you always need to adjust it yourself. And the price for 22 inches is quite reasonable.

Keyboard

Opt for a backlit gaming keyboard for night gaming and a small fan for blowing your fingers. Model Tt eSPORTS by Thermaltake Challenger price 450 UAH.

Mouse

Here it is already more difficult, for a gamer, a mouse is everything !!! Therefore, her choice must be taken with responsibility. An inexpensive and quite competent solution is called Mad Catz R.A.T. 3 Matte Black. The cost is 700 UAH. Good accuracy and stability. This mouse was created by people who specialize in computer games and know what it takes to play well. The most budgetary option of the good gaming rodents. There is also a braided cord that eliminates kinks and chafing.

Mat

We take a carpet for the STEELSERIES QcK + mouse, the coupling with the mouse will be excellent and the dimensions are quite acceptable for the game (400 × 450x2 mm.) The price is 150 UAH.

Let's summarize the final result of our selection.

  • System unit - 9300 UAH
  • Monitor - 1400 UAH
  • Keyboard - 450 UAH
  • Mouse - 700 UAH
  • Mouse pad - 150 UAH
  • Total: UAH 12,000 for the whole set

In conclusion, I can say that this rocket will be enough for you for all modern games, and I think there will be no problems with quality and performance.

I talked about why I always prefer to order a new computer in the form of separate components. In the comments to this article, I was asked to show for those who have never encountered anything like this exactly how the assembly process takes place: how difficult it is, well, maybe whether not too advanced user to assemble the computer by himself. And then I thought that if you shoot and demonstrate this process, it could become a useful article for the "Educational program" section. After all, in fact, in self-assembly of a computer, nothing is impossible. Mastering this is not more difficult than assembling a cabinet from IKEA, and even then - in my opinion, assembling a cabinet from IKEA is much more difficult. And if you more or less understand what components a computer consists of and how these components you need to select, then, of course, it is better for you to assemble a new computer yourself - from those components that you yourself will select for your tasks and your financial capabilities. Well, let's see how I assembled my computer: what goes for what, what they can be complexities and subtleties. Here is a prepared set of components (what are these components and why I chose them in the article). (All photos are clickable so that you can view all sorts of details.)

At home, it is better to assemble on a table if it is of sufficient size, but even better on a bed - this is most convenient: you don't have to bend too much, and there is plenty of space. I take the case out of the box. Handsome, isn't he? Remove both side covers.

The case contains wires with pads for connecting any ports, coolers and switches. Also, there are mandatory bags with all kinds of fasteners and clamps.

The front door opens, under it there are four five-inch seats, for example, for a DVD and any additional panels.

On the left side of the top case cover there are two USB 3.0 ports, two USB 2.0 ports, headphone and microphone outputs.

On the right - the power button, the reset button, the on / off button for the backlighting of the back of the case, a three-position button for switching airflow modes, an indicator of hard drives operation, an indicator of airflow mode.

The back of the case.

First, install the power supply. In the article I wrote that I decided to take the V550 model - for 550 watts. However, on reflection, I decided that I would still take a more powerful power supply. And the point is not that I want to have a margin of power: you never know what it would occur to me to put it into a computer. The fact is that a more powerful power supply unit will turn on the cooler for airflow much less often, and it is extremely important for me that the computer is practically silent.

This is what I call a smartly packaged power supply. It's nice to take it in hand.

The power supply itself, complete wires and a set of clamps.

We install the power supply unit in the PSU compartment of the case. It is installed with the fan down - there is a corresponding ventilation window with a dust filter on the computer case.

We fasten the power supply with bolts.

Now it's the motherboard's turn. By the way, before you pick it up, make sure that you have no static electricity on your hands, otherwise, if you discharge directly into your mother, it may end badly. The same goes for other computer boards.

We take out the motherboard.

A large set of fasteners, wires, adapters and so on goes to it.

Port block.

It must be installed in the corresponding slot of the computer case: carefully bring it to the slot inside the case and insert evenly until it clicks. Check that the block is seated correctly on all sides.

Slot for installing the processor. We release the clamping handle, open the clamping frame, remove the plastic cap.

We take the processor out of the box.

We install it in the landing slot. The triangle in the corner of the processor should be facing the triangle drawn on the motherboard below the socket. There are also two guides there, so it just won't work to put the processor incorrectly.

We cover the processor with a clamping frame, fix the handle under the ledge.

Now we install a cooling system on the motherboard with a processor, in simple terms - a cooler.

We take out the cooler from the box. It consists of a heatsink and a removable fan.

Two types of fasteners - for Intel processors and AMD processors.

Fasteners for Intel processors.

Remove the fan from the radiator so that it does not interfere.

The black bezel is installed on the bottom of the motherboard under the processor, and its racks pass through special holes.

Holders are installed on these racks from the top. They can be installed like mine, or they can be rotated 90 degrees.

Before installing the heatsink, the upper part of the processor must be lubricated with a special heat-conducting paste, which will increase the contact area between the heatsink pad and the processor and improve heat dissipation. If the paste is not used or applied incorrectly, it is quite possible that the processor will overheat, which is fraught with very big problems in the operation of the computer. A special syringe with paste is supplied with the cooler. There you need to unscrew the cap, squeeze the required amount onto the upper surface of the processor and spread this paste very evenly with a thin layer. Before that, do not touch the processor surfaces and the radiator landing pad with your fingers, so that grease stains do not appear.

After that, you need to install the heatsink and fix it properly so that it is pressed against the processor surface as tightly as possible.

Special double plastic buffers were attached to the fan, with which it had to work even quieter - I installed them.

After that, I installed the fan on the radiator and connected its power to the corresponding connector on the motherboard. This connector is located next to the processor, and there through the BIOS or special programs you can set the rotational speed of the cooler.

Next, you need to install the motherboard into the case, but first, one note about installing the cooler. I have it installed opposite the case fan, which supplies air to the inside of the case. However, it would be best to turn the heatsink with a fan 90 degrees counterclockwise so that it supplies heated air to the exhaust fan, which is mounted on the rear end (both of these fans are clearly visible in the photo). But I was prevented from installing it in this way by the location on the motherboard of slots for memory cards - in this case, the fan would rest against the memory cards, which is undesirable. Therefore, I installed it exactly as in the photo - so it does not interfere with anything. And I thought that even with this arrangement, I would not have any problems with cooling the processor: after all, it is a very efficient cooler. (I must say right away that it turned out to be so - there were no problems.)

The ports and outputs of the motherboard should be in place in the already installed connector. First, we check that everything is in place, after which we attach the motherboard, without missing a single place of fasteners.

The motherboard is installed, now we start connecting the wires.

In modern cases, special holes are always made with rubber nozzles, through which cables and wires can be routed not from above the motherboard, but through the back wall. It's more convenient, and then everything looks much neater.

As needed, we connect the cables to the power supply, pass them through the back wall and connect them to the pads on the motherboard. The heads of the power supply cables clearly correspond to the pads, so there is simply no way to confuse something.

We connect power to the main block of the motherboard, bringing the cable out of the hole closest to the block.

In the same way, we connect the rest of the cables - audio, USB, power supply to coolers and so on.

We pass all cables through the back wall, take them out of the nearest hole and connect. Later, when we collect everything, we will remove the excess cable sections under the back wall.

From the case there is a bundle of wires with heads that are connected to a group of contacts on the motherboard - this is the power button (two contacts simply close there), a power indicator, Reset, an indicator of hard drives. Theoretically, the names and polarity of the contacts are written on the board and in the instructions, but almost advanced motherboards are usually equipped with a special block, to which you can easily and easily connect wires, and the block then sits on a group of contacts. Here is this block.

We insert the wires (there it is written on the head of each wire what it is).

We insert the block on the contacts.

For the convenience of work, I purchased such a universal card reader with additional USB ports. It is installed in a five-inch slot in the chassis.

The set includes two front panels in other colors - white and gray.

My body is white, so I installed a white socket.

A plug is pulled out of the five-inch mounting slot, a card reader is placed there and secured. Its cables connect to the USB pins of the motherboard.

Now we install the memory. Before that, just in case, you need to look at the instructions: if only two out of four slots are used (and this is the case for me), then the memory plates must be inserted through the slot - this is the so-called two-channel memory configuration. The instructions clearly say how to install this memory: either in the 1st and 3rd slots, or in the 2nd and 4th slots.

Here are two memory strips.

Install: there is a special protrusion in the memory slot, which shows exactly how to unfold the memory card so that the groove on it coincides with this protrusion and the card is installed in the desired position. The board should be put in the desired position, and then slightly press from the edges so that the board sits into the slot and the plastic levers snap into place at the edges.

Now we install a terabyte SSD of M.2 format - here it is, handsome.

The motherboard has two slots for M.2. We install it in one of them and fix the board with a screw.

Despite the presence of a terabyte SSD, I nevertheless decided to put a quiet three terabyte HDD in some far corner of the case - for all kinds of data that are not constantly used. The disk is installed very simply: plastic holders are pulled out of the disc basket, iron holders are inserted into the fastening hard disk holes, after which the disk is inserted into the selected section of the basket and snaps into place. Its power and interface pads are on the back panel, where they are connected with a power cable and a SATA cable.

Installed disk. Now it's the graphics card's turn.

We take it out, insert it into the mother card slot until the lever clicks. (There, in the photo, you can still see a small video capture card already inserted, which I use to take screenshots from media players.)

Advanced video cards require their own power supply - plug it in. (For very cool cards, you need to connect as many as two power heads.)

Well, everything seems to be assembled.

We put back both covers.

We connect it to the power supply, monitor, keyboard and mouse, run it - everything worked.

By the way, the backlighting is very convenient, especially since it can be turned off when it is not needed.

Well, now a few indicators on the assembled machine. SSD speed on M.2.

On an old computer, the Samsung 850 PRO has that speed.

The difference, of course, is very noticeable. There, people at Samsung SSDs turn on RAPID mode in Samsung Magician and get such completely unrealistic speeds through caching.

But these are just beautiful numbers that have nothing to do with reality. But on M.2, this is reality! And this is not the PRO version yet (it is quite expensive, I did not see any point in spending money). How does it look purely practically? System from boot start (after BIOS) to login window - 4 seconds. Lightroom launch - 2 seconds. Photoshop launch - 1.5 seconds. The general system index according to Basemark is like this. My old computer (very powerful) had 314.59.
Well, about the temperature of the important components: the temperature at minimum rotation speeds (complete silence) when working with a browser, a text editor, and so on.

Temperature at minimum rotation speeds (complete silence), when the processor is 100% loaded - DVD to MKV is being recoding with H.264.

It practically does not go beyond 70 degrees, and this is quite normal. And one has only to increase the speed of the coolers from the quietest to the slightly noticeable - everything becomes something like this. At one hundred percent, I note, the load.

In normal loaded mode (Lightroom and other programs), the processor temperature is about 35 degrees. The video card here is quite powerful - Palit Geforce GTX 1070. It has two coolers, but it turns them on only when it is under serious load, while the coolers I can’t hear it anyway. Here the card froze after 10 minutes of playing the last DOOM at the maximum settings for this configuration. The temperature is less than 60 degrees and the coolers rotate at 32% of their maximum speed.
These are the indicators for the assembled machine. It was not in vain that everything was selected separately, and as a conclusion regarding the assembly of the computer. The main thing here is to do everything VERY CAREFULLY, without rushing and carefully studying the manuals and pictures in the manual (especially if the experience is still not enough).

Any technique becomes obsolete over time and it has to look for a replacement. Personal computers are no exception. Everything would be fine, but the rise in prices is very expensive. A ready-made powerful desktop computer will cost about $ 1,500. The cost looks cosmic and discourages all the desire to look for a new gadget, but there is a way out of this situation - to assemble the device yourself. How to assemble a computer yourself from the components, and how to choose them correctly - you will learn in this article.

Remember the imposition of services

Selecting parts separately will not only satisfy all needs, but also significantly reduce the total cost for a complete system unit. Plus, if you assemble the computer yourself from the components, all the characteristics will exactly meet your expectations.

Important! Sales consultants specifically intimidate inexperienced users that self-assembly makes replacement under warranty impossible. There is not a drop of truth in this, since each part will have a warranty card, and if it suddenly fails, you can always replace it or take it to repair under warranty.

Let's take a closer look at all the information about the components and the main nuances of their choice.

Central processing unit, motherboard and RAM

How to build a computer yourself? First, you should do the stuffing for your system engineer. Let's start choosing a processor, which is the “heart” of the computer.

Power

First you need to determine the purpose of using a stationary personal computer. If you are used to working in demanding software or playing computer games, then you should pay attention to powerful processors. The higher the speed of its operation, the faster the device works.

There are two main indicators that you need to know about in order to assemble a computer yourself from the components:

  • Clock frequency. Don't choose components below 2 GHz.
  • RAM. Don't even look in the direction of bars with values \u200b\u200bbelow 2 GB.

The best option is when these indicators are 2 times higher than the specified minimum. In a separate article, which you can go to by the link, we have prepared a lot of useful information for you and.

Important! If you are choosing a processor, take the time to become familiar with its cache memory. Relevant for those models with an indicator of at least 3 MB.

Motherboard

Let's move on to the motherboard on which the entire device is literally based:

  • We recommend that you familiarize yourself with such renowned manufacturers as: ASUS, Gigabyte, Foxconn, Msi.
  • To make your machine powerful, you need to give preference to ATX boards because it has the largest number of pins that will facilitate future upgrades. And such a motherboard is very easy to install in the system unit.

Important! First of all, you need to make sure that the selected processor is compatible with the motherboard. If the devices are not compatible, then you will have huge problems during installation.

RAM

Well, RAM (random access memory). Now the most current models work on the DDR3 or DDR4 principle. These are the options we will consider. But choosing the type of RAM is not the most important thing. The most important parameter is the amount of memory. It is advisable to equip your computer with two 8 GB strips, then you will have more opportunities to assemble the most powerful computer from components.

Video card

Hello gamers! The quality of everything that you can observe on your monitor directly depends on this component. The importance of choosing this part is not inferior to the previous ones, especially if you plan to assemble a computer yourself from components and want it to fully meet your requirements.

The criteria here are similar to RAM:

  • More volume characterizes the quality of the models.
  • Speaking about manufacturers, here you need to put your eyes on Nvidia and AMD, which have long felt comfortable in the technology market.

Important! If you buy vidyuhu from one of the aforementioned manufacturers, then the chances of stumbling upon a “fake” technique are reduced to zero.

How to build a gaming computer? We have already talked about the most important details for players, now you need to find the right food for them.

A little about the power supply

If you are aiming at assembling a powerful PC, then the power of the power supply unit should be at least 700 watts. If you give preference to models with less power, then there is a very risk of burning this device in less than a month. You can insure yourself and buy a UPS (uninterruptible power supply). An uninterruptible power supply saves from sudden blackouts and power-ups.

Data store

Well, our computer is almost drawn, it remains to choose a few more parts and everything will be ready. Now we will talk about the hard drive (hard drive):

  • The best option is to install two parts at once.
  • It is advisable to give preference to those models whose rotation speed is from 7200 rpm, and the capacity of such a device should be at least 1 TB.

Important! If you have a good budget, then instead of HDD. SSDs are many times faster, but their cost is several times higher than that of hard drives with the previous technology.

Drive

Well, everything here tastes and colors. Some users do not bother buying, since no one buys discs today. But if you are the owner of a collection of games, films and software, then check out such manufacturers as: Sony and Pioneer.

Important! Better not to take older models like CD-ROMs. Chances are, you won't even have the opportunity to stumble upon such devices in today's technology market.

We assemble a computer device with our own hands

Where to start assembling a computer? If you have brought all the purchases home, then you can proceed with the installation.

Important! Each part is protected against incorrect assembly. If the component does not want to be installed, then simply try to install it in a different way.

Let's move on to the step-by-step instructions for assembling a stationary personal computer:

  • You need to open the system unit. Remove the side cover with a screwdriver and install the PSU (power supply) in its rightful place. The mounting holes will tell you exactly how to install it.
  • Now it's time to tackle the cooling system. The minimum number of coolers in the system should not be less than two. One of the fans provides air flow and is located at the front of the system unit. The second one “pumps out” hot air, and is located in the back of the system unit. For fasteners, self-tapping screws or special rubber clamps are usually used.
  • We install all purchased components on the motherboard with special care. The CPU (central processing unit) must be fixed in such a way that the motherboard connector is aligned with the processor pins. The fan is mounted above the processor using the fasteners that come with it.

Important! Be sure to apply a small layer of thermal paste to the surface area of \u200b\u200bthe CPU in order to avoid exposure to higher temperatures in the future.

  • We connect the cooler to the motherboard using the CPU FAN connector.
  • We install the racks under the motherboard in the "box". Do not forget about the plug, which prevents dust and other debris from getting inside.
  • We insert the ramps. To install, you need to pull back the latches and slightly press on the RAM until it clicks.
  • We again take up the main board, put it in a ready-made place in the case of the future device. Check carefully that all the connectors on the back of the PC are in place. We fix the main board with screws.
  • We are looking for a drive bay. You need to remove the cap and insert the optical drive from the outside, securing it with screws.
  • The turn came to the hard drive. Usually a place is allocated for it at the very bottom. Installation is best done from the inside. Do not forget about connecting the power and signal cables. We tighten the screws to fix it.
  • We open the stub in the place where the video card will be installed. It is usually fixed to the back of the unit. We insert the card into the board connector and screw it on.
  • Now you need to start connecting the wires. Connect all components with power and secure with latches, if any.
  • Now you need to connect the "mother" and the body panel. It is necessary that all indicators of the system unit are connected to the corresponding connectors.
  • We connect the remaining connectors: USB and audio.
  • Well, at the end of the procedure, you need to put things in order inside the iron box, since there should be a chaotic web of wires.

We put the cover in place. We attach all the accessories to the computer and check the new device for performance.

More and more people are wondering every day how to assemble a computer yourself from components from scratch. Assembling a computer yourself and with your own hands is a rather exciting and educational process. Self-assembly and customization of a computer costs on average 30% less than buying an already assembled, ready-to-use machine.

Some people mean a computer system unit, but I hasten to remind you that a system unit without a monitor, keyboard and mouse is useless. Only with these peripherals does it become a fully functional personal computer.

What do you need to assemble a computer?

To start assembly, you need to pick up a new set of parts. It is undesirable to buy parts that were in use, since in the absence of experience in setting up a PC, difficulties may arise.

So what does it take to build a computer? The points:

  1. the computer case,
  2. power Supply,
  3. motherboard,
  4. cPU,
  5. rAM,
  6. video card,
  7. sound card,
  8. DVD drive,
  9. hDD,
  10. monitor,
  11. keyboard,
  12. computer mouse.

How to choose a case for your computer?

Choose a solid computer case. It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that in stores there are Chinese-made cases, which are made of very thin sheet metal and are easily deformed under mechanical stress.

The computer case includes a power supply and a network cable. Sometimes the case and power supply are sold separately.

How to choose a motherboard?

Motherboards come with integrated video and audio processing cards. These motherboards are easier to assemble and have average specifications.

If you need to equip your computer with more powerful means of playing sound and video information, then you need to use a motherboard, which is equipped with slots for a video card and a sound card.

When choosing a motherboard, you need to determine the area of \u200b\u200bprimary use of the computer.

How to choose a graphics card?

It makes no sense to use an expensive video card to watch news and video information on the Internet. But if you are a fan of computer games with cool video effects or plan to work in powerful video editing programs, then you cannot do without a good video card.

When choosing, always start from the purpose for which you purchase a video card. The power and price of the video card will depend on this.

Tell the store clerk why you need a video card. He can help you find the right model.

How to choose a sound card?

The question of how to choose the right sound card is quite extensive, so I will confine myself to basic theses.

Sound cards integrated into the motherboard generally have two channels. If you are planning to listen to music through an amplifier or receiver, then buy a multi-channel sound card. There are some that support 5.1 and 7.1 sound systems, when the system has multiple speakers and a subwoofer.

Sound cards are internal, which are inserted into a connector on the motherboard, and external, which can be connected to a computer via a USB or Firewire connector. Although the latter are more professional-level sound cards used by sound engineers, DJs and electronic musicians.

First of all, in order to answer the question of how to choose a sound card, ask yourself a question, why do you need a sound card in principle, and then look for a model that meets your criteria.

How do I choose RAM?

To buy a suitable RAM, you must first decide on its volume. For an ordinary modern computer, 4 GB is enough. For a gaming computer, you need at least 8 GB.

It is also important to know the type of RAM connectors on your motherboard. Recently, you can find mainly only DDR3, but in general you can find the following types of connectors:

The type of RAM connector is usually indicated in the description of the motherboard. In any case, check with the store if they will be able to change the memory you buy for another type of memory of the same size, if you make a mistake with the choice of memory type.

Memory cards are sensitive to static charges, so it is not recommended to unpack them and keep them open until installation. Before installation, it is recommended to touch the metal case to discharge any potential accumulated static charge on you.

HDD

The information that is on the hard drive also requires a certain amount of space. You may need additional storage space depending on your goals.

For work, a 500 GB hard drive is the best option. If you are going to play games or download movies in Blu-ray format to your hard drive, and there will be many of them, then you can safely take a hard drive of 1 terabyte or more. I prefer to go with Seagate Barracuda hard drives.

DVD drives

DVD drives differ by manufacturer and price, but otherwise they are standard. They are mainly needed to install programs and drivers for hardware at the initial stage of setting up a computer. Further, if you connect to high-speed Internet, most likely you will rarely use your DVD drive.

How to choose a processor?

The processor power used to depend only on the clock frequency. The higher the frequency, the more powerful the processor. But now such a factor as the number of processor cores has been added. The more powerful the processor, the higher the speed of the computer. The motherboard must support the platform or socket of the processor of your choice. Therefore, it is better to choose them together and in advance.

The answer to the question of how to choose a processor depends, again, on what you are going to use the computer for.

Monitor, keyboard, mouse

I have had a Phillips widescreen monitor, a Logitech MX Performance Mouse wireless mouse and an ordinary USB keyboard for a long time and have been successfully working.

But I leave the choice of these peripherals to your personal taste. The number of opinions and options here is huge. I recommend using simple but reliable ones.

DIY computer assembly: How to assemble a computer yourself?

Important tip:

When assembling the computer yourself, it is not recommended to wear synthetic clothing that condenses an electrostatic charge. Electrostatic voltage is detrimental to microcircuits. Therefore, you should use cotton clothing.

So how do you build your own computer? PC assembly begins with installing the processor and heatsink with fan on the motherboard. The processor is installed in the socket and fixed with a lever. Thermal paste is evenly applied to the surface of the processor and the heat sink is fixed, as shown in the figure in the instructions. The fan cable connector must be connected to the power socket located next to the processor panel.

You can immediately install the RAM card on the motherboard. It is necessary to be extremely careful and not make great mechanical efforts, so as not to damage the adjacent elements of the board. I already wrote detailed with pictures. A detailed description of installing the processor is supplied with the motherboard.

The next step in the assembly is to install the hard disk and DVD drive into the PC case. Then the motherboard is installed and secured. The wires with connectors that go from the power supply must be connected to the corresponding sockets on the motherboard, DVD drive and hard disk. Then connect all the wires that go from the front panel of the computer case to the corresponding connectors on the motherboard, following the connection instructions.

Now you can proceed to installing the operating system. After fully configuring the computer software, you can close the case cover.

In general, assembling a computer with your own hands takes place in this order. The nuances of how to independently assemble a computer are not deliberately described, since in each case they are different. Leave questions about assembling your computer in the comments.

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